MZR Option

[Brian]

I have stock 2.5 crank in NCLIGHT and I have been running it 7800 RPMS for entire weekends of full throttle 300hp track work with no issues.

Brian, that's certainly good news.

In your opinion, if I were eventually planning to run your supercharger kit, would the 2.5 block be a beneficial mod?

Nope, spinning that blower fast already to fill the 2.0. If I was to going to use a 2.5 for a supercharged NC it would need a bigger blower.

[methos]

Thanks for your description of the project grippy, helps to formulate my plan.

[grippy]

Glad to help.
Have you looked on car-part.com for a replacement 2.0?
You can also buy a crate motor or shortblock directly from MazdaMotorsports at a discount. IIRC it was $1800 for a shortblock and 3K for a longblock.

Good luck getting back up and running.

[methos]

Lets say I go with the following:
• 2010 2.5L bottom end.
• Stock Exhaust for now (but will upgrade in near future) Looking at Good-Win exhausts.
• Light Flywheel
• CAI
• Dynotronics tune

Going with the above, any idea what sort of gains I would realize with head work and cams? Are we talking less than 5hp?

[methos]

grippy...This was not hard, but quite involved to get everything right, I had to do a lot of research and test fitting. Might a bit too much for your average shade tree mechanic. That is 167 WHP on a dynapack "heartbreaker" dyno. I am hoping for 170 once the fueling is finalized.

It looks like I'm going to try and tackle this project with either the 2.5L or the 2.3L short block with my 2.0L Heads and cams doing as much research as possible and working with a capable mechanic. Based on what I've read so far in "forums" online (ya, not really too much actual wrenching experience with these cars) the 2.3L revs. faster and it's easier to fit into the NC? The 2.5L has more torque but is a little sleepy in comparison?

So... where did your challenges lie in terms of fitting? I read the following from a thread on another forum: "Brian says alternator will not fit with the 2.5 block and hits the steering rack. I think this would be a big issue for people who want to street drive their cars and can't get by with a small race alternator."

Did you have to create or use any custom fabricated hardware? I also read that you have to create custom motor mounts?

I have the 6-spd man. in my '06. Any concerns with that?

Which header did you use? Seems the the stock one will "not" fit?





Thanks,
Methos

[finiata]

if you decide to go back stock 2.0 holler I'll make you a deal. 30k 0 problems.

[skeeler]

Grippy,

Any update?

[grippy]

It has been a long frustrating summer. After many months of datalogging and reflashing I still do not have a final tune from dynotronics. Last time I went to the dyno I was at 169 hp and 163 lbft IIRC and A/F was way off. The biggest pain has been the wireing harness which keeps breaking wires to the coils from vibration. It breaks near the coil connector still in the insulation so very hard to find, but engine cuts out around 5500. From what I heard all the cup cars had this problem. I have a solid underdrive crank pulley and AWR mounts (softest) so there is a lot of vibration without the balance shafts. I contacted ATI about making a damper but they are not very interested because no one else has asked for one. I will probably go back to the stock pulley.

I need to find a solution to tune this beast. When running it is awesome, although another 20 hp would be welcome. I am looking into cams and headwork for next year but need a tuning solution first.

[skeeler]

Gordon,

Thanks for the update. I'm sorry to hear about all your trouble. Let us know more as you work the bugs out.

Michael