Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Miata Parts, Intakes, Superchargers, Headers, Exhausts, Shocks, Springs, Sway Bars, Brake Kits, Autocross and track mods.
Brian
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by Brian »

Welcome. A large number of us Miata lovers are old motorcycle guys, I still have a Buell in the garage but it doesn't get much mileage these days as the wife likes the Miata much more.

Yes, this project continues with both Progress Sways and Progress Springs....and wife loves this combo so we have not make other changes in that regard. It has stock endlinks too, which work fine at this height.

Brian
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Buzzclick
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by Buzzclick »

I know that the "outside" or "furthest" holes are recommended at first for the sway bar installation.

Which holes do folks usually end up sticking with? At least those with my skill level (which is intermediate at best)

Which position are yours currently at on this particular car?

BTW...I still have a bike (my trusty Suzuki SV650) but it rarely sees the road these days as well. My Yamaha FRJ was replaced by this MX-5.

I was sad to see it go but I have no regrets what so ever. :D
2010 silver GT PRHT 6MT
Buzzclick
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by Buzzclick »

I read through a bunch of threads on the topic and got the answer as to which position your sways are in at the present.

Plus the fact that you recommend someone only going as far as middle position front and softest rear in the beginning. Which is what I will do.

One more question;

I'm not clear on which points are to be loosened and re-torqued once the suspension has settled. The spring/sway replacement method I did involved only removing the top nut and shock bolt on the rear. (The floor jack method)
And the top A-arm bolts and lower shock bolt on the front.

Could you clarify this please?
2010 silver GT PRHT 6MT
skeeler
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by skeeler »

Brian has a good thread on coilover replacement in the Instructions subforum. The short version is that you want to torque the inboard upper bolts (2 on the upper wishbone in front and 2 on the upper links in the rear) and the sway bar endlinks withe the weight on the wheels.
2009, STR & DD. 1995, HPDE. 2004 MSM, sold. 2010 Mazda3, hers.
jboemler
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by jboemler »

skeeler wrote:The short version is that you want to torque the inboard upper bolts (2 on the upper wishbone in front and 2 on the upper links in the rear) and the sway bar endlinks withe the weight on the wheels.
The sway bar endlinks don't matter, since they're on ball joints. What does matter (in addition to those mentioned above) are the lower wishbone mountings points -- the "alignment" bolts. Basically, any bolt that has a link mounted to it that rotates on a flexing rubber bushing.
Buzzclick
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by Buzzclick »

So just to be clear...

Should I drive around for a while then re-torque all of these points

OR

Loosen these points slightly, drive around, THEN re-torque all points mentioned.
2010 silver GT PRHT 6MT
E-ROC
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by E-ROC »

Who makes these new braces?
E-ROC
2010 MX-5 GT, 6MT, liquid silver/black leather, black soft top, suspension package, premium package.
jboemler
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by jboemler »

Buzzclick wrote:So just to be clear...

Should I drive around for a while then re-torque all of these points

OR

Loosen these points slightly, drive around, THEN re-torque all points mentioned.
The latter. Beware that your alignment will have changed, both due to the spring change itself, and due to loosening the adjustment bolts. You shouldn't be driving any real distance like that, and especially with the bolts loose.
DavidP020
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by DavidP020 »

Brian wrote:Most cars toe out a bit under load, such that the balance of the car is shifting slightly as you push harder and harder. Never realized how much rear toe out this car can have until I tried these rear toe braces, now I need to change rear sway setting to compensate, but I like the more linear response and more consistent balance at the limit.
Do you mean the car will understeer a bit with these braces and you need to stiffen the rear sway bar? Because from my understanding, rear toe out oversteer the car.
Brian
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Re: Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

Post by Brian »

Yes, by preventing that rear toe out under load, the car has a bit more understeer, so I changed the rear sway bar setting to tighter.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
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