Brian,
I finally got a chance to install the Progress sways (front and rear). While the car clearly corners much more flat, I feel like the car is a bit more unstable. While driving down the freeway, I feel like the car is more jittery and eager to change direction. I have the front in the middle position and the rear in looser position (hole toward the end). I will be going for a mountain drive on Friday so get used to the setup, but is such a darty behavior normal? I also changed my tires to a set I've never used before, so could that be a contributor?
Progress Springs vs. Racing Beat Springs w/factory Bilstein
Re: Progress Springs vs. Racing Beat Springs w/factory Bilst
2013 Miata Club "Shadowfax"
"And the road becomes my bride..."
"And the road becomes my bride..."
Re: Progress Springs vs. Racing Beat Springs w/factory Bilst
Always best to change one item at a time so you know what is making the difference. Most customers feel a big IMPROVEMENT in stability from adding sways, because the car is not near so floppy in the turns, but it is true that it will respond quicker since it is not first flopping over onto the stops before reacting to your turning inputs at the steering wheel
As for the new tires, check the pressures first. Certainly new tires have a different feel, and new tires need some scrub time break-in.
As for the new tires, check the pressures first. Certainly new tires have a different feel, and new tires need some scrub time break-in.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Re: Progress Springs vs. Racing Beat Springs w/factory Bilst
You've mentioned that bump stops are great for lowered cars. Would they make any difference to my car? It is not dropped but has the sways installed and sees track time about 4-5 times a year.
2013 Miata Club "Shadowfax"
"And the road becomes my bride..."
"And the road becomes my bride..."
Re: Progress Springs vs. Racing Beat Springs w/factory Bilst
Well, if not lowered then you can do what the stock class competitors do. They can't change springs so they run tall bumpstops instead, see our stock class FCM stops. Note install will mean pulling out stock springs, so labor is same as changing springs anyway.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
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Re: Progress Springs vs. Racing Beat Springs w/factory Bilst
David,DavidP953 wrote:Well, I am finally defeated. Tried to install my Progress springs, starting with the rears and could not remove the top nut on either shock. Tried everything except a torch (can't chance melting the rubber bushing) and no joy. An impact gun did nothing. I give up. I reassembled the car and will just have to give a shop the job. After all these years as a motorcycle, auto, and fighter jet technician, it looks like I am going to have to hang up the wrenches. If anyone knows the magic way to remove these top nuts, I would love to hear it, but in the meantime I have to get some painkillers and wash them down with some Bourbon.
Sorry for the late reply. For the rear shocks with the plastic liners removed from the trunk, *I* use a 17mm wrench (box end) w/ a *helper* bar, on the OEM top nuts with the shocks still installed. You just need to break them lose.
Mazda does use a blue thread lock on the OEM nuts. And please feel free to email me any questions about installing suspension on the NC. I done it a few times.
hayrandyl@cox.net
AZ
Re: Progress Springs vs. Racing Beat Springs w/factory Bilst
As I am new and way late to this blog I just had to comment "painkillers and Bourbon " was hilarious. I guess the best humor is the truthAZ Sun Lover wrote:David,DavidP953 wrote:Well, I am finally defeated. Tried to install my Progress springs, starting with the rears and could not remove the top nut on either shock. Tried everything except a torch (can't chance melting the rubber bushing) and no joy. An impact gun did nothing. I give up. I reassembled the car and will just have to give a shop the job. After all these years as a motorcycle, auto, and fighter jet technician, it looks like I am going to have to hang up the wrenches. If anyone knows the magic way to remove these top nuts, I would love to hear it, but in the meantime I have to get some painkillers and wash them down with some Bourbon.
Sorry for the late reply. For the rear shocks with the plastic liners removed from the trunk, *I* use a 17mm wrench (box end) w/ a *helper* bar, on the OEM top nuts with the shocks still installed. You just need to break them lose.
Mazda does use a blue thread lock on the OEM nuts. And please feel free to email me any questions about installing suspension on the NC. I done it a few times.
hayrandyl@cox.net
AZ