Installing/upgrading Engine Mounts

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.

Installing/upgrading Engine Mounts

Postby Cyberbug » Tue May 05, 2009 1:44 pm

I am upgrading the engine mounts with AWR 70.

The middle (joint) bolt in the mount is needs to be tighten after the install, anyone can share what the torque should be on it?

Any other informtion or points, lessons learned regarding the install will be helpful.

Thanks in advance :D
Cyberbug
 
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Postby Cyberbug » Wed May 06, 2009 8:58 am

To answer this question for future installers.

Torque the upper and lower nuts to 35 ft lbs and the through bolt to 45 ft lbs

This comes from AWR, Brian was also on the spot dead on 45ftlbs for the center bolt.

Hope this helps others
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Postby Arrowface » Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:24 pm

cyberbug, would you be able to write an installation guide to this ever so complicated process? I'm deathly scared of jacking the engine haha but it will save me 185 dollars if i do it myself =)
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Postby Cyberbug » Sat Aug 15, 2009 8:40 am

Hi There Arrow - I did write a little on the Miata.net - if you go there - please do a search.

Its actually simple - I can give you a few pointers.

If you have a FSTB remove it first or your Engine will not rise high enough.

Put the car on jack stand (not the jack- safety first)

Put a jack under the oil pan - don't worry - or similar point.

remove the wheels.

There are plastic covers which will be in the way - easy to remove - one turn with the philips head screw and they pop out - you'll see them when you look towards the mount from the wheel well.

Then raise the engine - loosen the bolts and the mount will just drop off.

I have a good jack with a 5" round rubber pad - you can use a wood block or something.

You can do both at the same time or one at a time.

easy stuff- should take less then two hours.

Go for it - :) - you'll be fine.
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Postby Arrowface » Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:13 pm

Thanks cyber =) Is the entire car jacked up on four jackstands, then another is placed under the engine to slightly raise the engine?
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Postby Cyberbug » Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:30 pm

up to you - but engine will need to be raised till the mounts come off
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Postby Arrowface » Sat Aug 15, 2009 10:15 pm

Hopefully it will work fine if i jack the car up just enough to take the tires off, then an extra jack under the engine to lift it. Will i need room to go under the car at all? Or can i do it from the wheel wells?
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Postby Cyberbug » Sun Aug 16, 2009 6:10 am

from the wheel wells - again use Jack Stands - Safety !!

Never work with Jacks only :)

Take one of the wheels off - give it s study and make a plan.
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Postby Arrowface » Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:35 pm

Hey Cyber, i read all your posts at miata.net and got a good idea of what to do, but there are still some missing spots for me that i didnt fully understand. I hope you don't mind if i write out a theoretical guide and then maybe you can correct me?

1. Put the car into gear and apply handbreak to keep the car from moving.

2. Jack the front of the car up with one stand on each side of the car towards the front tires.

3. Remove front tires.

4. Apply jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood on jack to distribute the surface area. Jack until it is tightly under the oil pan without lifting the engine.

*this is where im mostly confused*
5. Loosen mounting on either side from the wheel well(just one at a time), then slightly jack the engine up to remove the old motor mount.

6. Replace with new mount and lower engine just a little bit to line up holes? Use proper torque numbers.

7. Proceed to second mount on other side, untighten all its screws.

8. Slightly lift engine again to wiggle out the old motor mount.

9. Replace with new mount and lower engine just a little bit to line up holes? Use proper torque numbers.

10. Now that both motor mounts are replaced, slowly lower the jack under the engine.

11. Put wheels back on and un-jack the car.









Is this the proper theoretical procedure? Please correct me anywhere and add anything else needed.
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Postby Cyberbug » Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:41 pm

You are good both do both at the same time.

loosen both sides start lifting and wiggle both mounts out place new ones in and lower - save some time and lift the engine once plus evenly.

just start doing it you wont have problems.

sometimes practical works better then theory.
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Postby Arrowface » Fri Aug 21, 2009 1:09 am

alright will do, thanks for all your help cyber.
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Postby Panic.button » Sat Aug 22, 2009 6:35 pm

I just installed the engine mounts with the help of Brian over the phone for some pointers(thanks!). Did you guys get a strange metallic vibration sound somewhere around the wheel well? I check all the bolts including ones i didnt touch and everything is tight. Also on the drivers side there was a solid iron block of what seemed to be just a weight.. i had to take that out to make the engine mount fit.
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Postby mann » Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:46 pm

give them some time...when I first started mine up with the low durometer ones the whole house shook! Even after just a few days and only a couple hundred miles the shake much much less. Not sure about the block I didn't have any such thing that I noticed.
06 turbo
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Postby Panic.button » Sun Sep 20, 2009 1:35 pm

I got my engine mounts in and they are great! The extra vibration is def there, and after about 1000 miles its smooth unless your idling.

One question for you guys though. Do you find that you have random bursts of random amounts of vibration? I notice my idle cycling between 1k-0.700k rpm and as it fluxes between i normally get loads of vibration sometimes.
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Postby tomkk » Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:01 pm

I have vibration at about 2100 RPM and another band between 2500 an 3000. Hardly noticeable with the top down but very noticeable with it up.
Tom
2008 Red GT soft top
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