NC Rollbar Installation

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.
uncbigm
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:12 am

Post by uncbigm »

Brian,

Can you please post a picture of where the petty bar attaches at the bottom (to the car)?

Thanks!

Also, is the petty bar required to meet SCCA time trial requirements or is just the standard bar enough? Thanks again.
Brian
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Post by Brian »

Here is a shot. We just use a razor blade to slice the carpet in an H pattern so that the petty bar can be inserted and when removed the carpet folds back down neatly.

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For install, you line it up with plate on the petty bar so you can accurately mark on the rocker where it needs to be. Then drill into the rocker with a unibit so the nuts sit down into the rocker...and that leaves facing up a nice smooth plate. And if you slice the carpet neatly then you can fold it back over the plate when the petty bar is not in place.
Last edited by Brian on Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:10 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Brian Goodwin
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07miata
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Post by 07miata »

Awesome, thanks for the picture! It looks like I can order it without the petty bar and easily add the petty bar later once I'm ready for the track. *updates Xmas list*
Brian
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Post by Brian »

Link to good post for those with rear speakers!

http://www.good-win-racing.com/mazda-ta ... .php?t=818
Brian Goodwin
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Brian
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Post by Brian »

Additional Install work for Double Hoop Design. Buy a pair of M8 1.25 pitch 22mm long bolts at your local hardware store because you will need them to replace pair of factory bolts that are too long (sorry that we don't supply these). The following double hoop installment notes SUPPLEMENT and are in ADDITION to the instructions above for the single hoop design which also should be read in detail before starting the double hoop install shown here.

Before lowering double hoop bar into the car and connecting it you must make space for the additional passenger side leg by moving this white electrical connector...use a flat head screw driver to pop it up and disconnect it from this location and zip tie or tape it out of the way:

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Then lower the bar and bolt it into place (see instructions above for other bar)! Only after it is FULLY BOLTED into place do you trace outline of the pads under the inner bases of the inner leg of each hoop!

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Note on bolt/hole alignment....both bar designs are VERY precise but your NC gets some midlife spread as the miles rack up and the process starts the day your NC leaves the factory so fitment varies slightly and you can "walk" the bases slightly to the holes to get your bolts started as needed...never a need to grind or drill out the holes!

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Once you have marked the location for your bases (draw around them with a crayon, sharpie, scribe, etc...pull the bar, prep the metal at your weld points by sanding off the paint as shown here, then weld the plates in! For those not up to this part of the install we will supply some pads that can go under the bar bases...but the best install includes this step and it adds additional structural rigidity and safety! This first picture is the passenger side mount.

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Do the same for the driver's side mount shown here.

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Once the steel plates are welded in you should carefully mask them with paper and masking tape as shown here and spray paint them which is what we did so they don't rust.

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Once paint is dry install your bar again.

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Before installing all plastic you can easily install a harness...we have provided for use of harness with cross tube in the middle of each hoop as shown here.

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See prior pages for instructions on trimming and reinstalling plastic. Instead of one large fiberglass cover you have three small fiberglass covers with the double hoop. Your choice is to install outer two parts and grind about half an inch from the sides of your factory windblocker so that it can be reinstalled....or skip the windblocker and install all three fiberglass covers. We supply the factory plastic rivets if you want to attach these pieces in the factory style....but some prefer to use a double stick tape and not have the rivet look. IMPORTANT NOTE, replacement of the rear panel with this double hoop design requires trimming the inner boxes of the cubby storage bins!

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Last edited by Brian on Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Brian Goodwin
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Copper Red
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Post by Copper Red »

Question about the weld points. If I remember correctly, the gas tank is really close to where you welded the center mounts on. Will the tank need to be dropped to do this and repaint the area on the opposite side/underneath of the weld?

Just curious.

Thanks!
06 w/RHT and MS springs,sways,stb
Brian
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Post by Brian »

Copper Red wrote:Question about the weld points. If I remember correctly, the gas tank is really close to where you welded the center mounts on. Will the tank need to be dropped to do this and repaint the area on the opposite side/underneath of the weld?

Just curious.

Thanks!
no need to drop the tank....directions above are complete.
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Gripper
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Post by Gripper »

Brian,
I realize it wouldn't be as structurally stiff, but wouldn't it be easier to have the studs face down into the floor, then have the customer drill holes in the floor? A lot more people have access to a drill than a MIG welder.

On second thought you did say that the fuel tank was below that area...is there clearance to drop the studs through the floor? Can you even access that area under the car to put nuts on the studs?
Brian
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Post by Brian »

Gripper wrote:Brian,
I realize it wouldn't be as structurally stiff, but wouldn't it be easier to have the studs face down into the floor, then have the customer drill holes in the floor? A lot more people have access to a drill than a MIG welder.

On second thought you did say that the fuel tank was below that area...is there clearance to drop the studs through the floor? Can you even access that area under the car to put nuts on the studs?
Indeed you can't easily access the other side so this idea would not work.
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Gripper
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Post by Gripper »

Gotcha :wink:
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