it's nearly midnight, and we started around 2.
1. In addition to your usual collection of metric wrenches and sockets you'll need 18mm deep and regular sockets. A ratchet/box and box at 19mm is necessary for the cross bolt in the new mounts. A 17 deep might also be a help.
2. If you have an older (2006) model you'll need a breaker bar to remove the old mounts.
3. Ramps then jack and stands work best. Then jack, remove stands, lower to ramp to finish.
4.The air dam is the worst part as the little plastic tabs that have never been loosened are stripped.
5. Two people make this much more doable. There's a lot of passing tools and fittings back and forth.
6. The jack stands are best on some inner wheel mounts. It's much easier to navigate.
7. There are bunches of wires and the brake lines that need to be adjusted or moved for access. There is a clamp welded to the driver side OEM mounts. I left the bundle simply hang.
8. Spaces are tight and take some time to get parts out.
9. The driver side seemed to raise higher more easily. The passenger side dropped in neatly thereafter.
10. One of the new mounts had to have outer fitting reversed in order to fit. Why?
11. The hood lid will need to be tightened. It's rattling at idle.
12. The vibration is not too bad straight out of the garage.
13. Worthwhile, but I suggest you take these notes to heart if you don't already have a great tool collection.