Mazda Talk Forums

alright will do, thanks for all your help cyber.

I just installed the engine mounts with the help of Brian over the phone for some pointers(thanks!). Did you guys get a strange metallic vibration sound somewhere around the wheel well? I check all the bolts including ones i didnt touch and everything is tight. Also on the drivers side there was a solid iron block of what seemed to be just a weight.. i had to take that out to make the engine mount fit.

give them some time...when I first started mine up with the low durometer ones the whole house shook! Even after just a few days and only a couple hundred miles the shake much much less. Not sure about the block I didn't have any such thing that I noticed.

I got my engine mounts in and they are great! The extra vibration is def there, and after about 1000 miles its smooth unless your idling.

One question for you guys though. Do you find that you have random bursts of random amounts of vibration? I notice my idle cycling between 1k-0.700k rpm and as it fluxes between i normally get loads of vibration sometimes.

I have vibration at about 2100 RPM and another band between 2500 an 3000. Hardly noticeable with the top down but very noticeable with it up.

If the car is on a lift, do the wheels still need to be removed.

They just arrived and are HUGE!

it's nearly midnight, and we started around 2.

1. In addition to your usual collection of metric wrenches and sockets you'll need 18mm deep and regular sockets. A ratchet/box and box at 19mm is necessary for the cross bolt in the new mounts. A 17 deep might also be a help.

2. If you have an older (2006) model you'll need a breaker bar to remove the old mounts.

3. Ramps then jack and stands work best. Then jack, remove stands, lower to ramp to finish.

4.The air dam is the worst part as the little plastic tabs that have never been loosened are stripped.

5. Two people make this much more doable. There's a lot of passing tools and fittings back and forth.

6. The jack stands are best on some inner wheel mounts. It's much easier to navigate.

7. There are bunches of wires and the brake lines that need to be adjusted or moved for access. There is a clamp welded to the driver side OEM mounts. I left the bundle simply hang.

8. Spaces are tight and take some time to get parts out.

9. The driver side seemed to raise higher more easily. The passenger side dropped in neatly thereafter.

10. One of the new mounts had to have outer fitting reversed in order to fit. Why?

11. The hood lid will need to be tightened. It's rattling at idle.

12. The vibration is not too bad straight out of the garage.

13. Worthwhile, but I suggest you take these notes to heart if you don't already have a great tool collection.

it shouldnt take all day, I had mine installed in about 2 hours. But if you have an older car, do yourself a favor and give all the bolts a shot of penetrating fluid the night BEFORE you attempt the install, and let it sit.

I had only that day to work. The bolts in question (on top of the old mounts) can only be accessed with the car up on jackstands.

Also, the lack of a suggested tool list meant three trips for the missing tools;-(

Thanks to Cyberbug for his R&R tips, I was able to accomplish this quickly today and have a write-up here:

http://www.billswebspace.com/miata.html ... otorMounts

IMO, these mounts don't add any more vibration than the differential brace I installed but a little vibration to me may be a lot to someone else. Shifts are smoother and more accurate and the motor slop is gone- great mod