Mazda Talk Forums

I'm betting Progress will change their mind about making a new NC2 PRHT springs, now that they know Brian owns one.

I already put in a request to Progress for a set, when & if they come to market.

AZ

Brian wrote: So, for those who don't want to splice wires to complete the install, this fact raises the installed cost to include the header and $88 worth of extension cords. Thus, part of me really hoped that the other style would win the dyno battle because that version can be installed without the cords, but it was no contest on the dyno, longer primary design much stronger.

Hi Brian, question: aren't the actual extension cords too long for the new catted header ? The converter is just a couple inches lower but the cords are done to bring the plugs further into the midpipe.
And it's not clear to me how much gain does the new catted header give compared to PPE catted header. Thanks

The fact that the cords are longer than you need simply means you can route them as you please. As already stated, it was not a close call on the dyno, longer primaries win. Just $88 in cords to enable install of the longer primary design that makes several more pound feet of torque across a broad range of RPMS...that's the cheapest torque you can buy. That means installed cost for the design that makes more torque, will still be about $200 less than the most similar competition.

But as already noted, this assumes you want a bolt in catted header that lives in the space occupied by the factory header. Many want this option. But otherwise, as already noted, our full open RoadsterSport header makes more power for less money....and you locate the sensors to the midpipe.

Maybe this has already been told in the past, but: how to use the RS midpipe with a catted header like the new one: I thought the sensor holes must be sealed by soldering, or maybe not ?

Not sure I understand the question. The RoadsterSport midpipe has two O2 connections...but they arrive with plugs that unscrew. So, you can use one or both as needed. With this header you would use just the O2 connection after the converter.

Brian wrote:Not sure I understand the question. The RoadsterSport midpipe has two O2 connections...but they arrive with plugs that unscrew. So, you can use one or both as needed. With this header you would use just the O2 connection after the converter.

I thought that RS midpipe had those two connection holes already open, hence if using with a RS "old" header (no converter) I plug cables into them, while when using with a catted header (i.e. the old PPE) which has 2 holes on it like the stock one, I had to close the midpipe holes somehow. I didn't know it came with plugs, good to know !

Has the new GWR catted header 2 holes like the old PPE and stock, or just 1 hole before the converter and none after ? I ask this question because as you wrote above, I would use one of the midpipe connections with this header (after converter).
If so, what if I mount the new GWR catted header with a straight midpipe, like i.e. the Racing Beat, which has no converter nor sensor holes ?

The Racing Beat header has two sensor holes as shown in the pictures but using both guarantees a code. So far the RoadsterSport Street header has just the leading sensor hole, because so far I have not found room to put a second on the underside with the converter so close to the lower flange. Thus, you would indeed put the second sensor in the midpipe.

Nice to see all attention about street use, I love this idea !
But I have a question for you : the first sensor is plugs before the cat, but if I save my genuine midpipe, where can I plug the second sensor ?

Zari wrote:Nice to see all attention about street use, I love this idea !
But I have a question for you : the first sensor is plugs before the cat, but if I save my genuine midpipe, where can I plug the second sensor ?

You would use this: CLICK HERE

I noticed the new catted header price was raised 100$, or did I smoke something bad last week ?