Thanks for the info!
Correct me if I am wrong, but best power & torque is achieved at a 12.2:1 a/f ratio.
At WOT you need the above ratio as stable as possible.
At part throttle and idle you prefer the stoichometric 14.7:1 ratio for better fuel economy.
NC DYNO: INTAKE, EXHAUST, MIDPIPE, HEADER, SUPERCHARGER!
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miataman wrote:Thanks for the info!
Correct me if I am wrong, but best power & torque is achieved at a 12.2:1 a/f ratio.
At WOT you need the above ratio as stable as possible.
At part throttle and idle you prefer the stoichometric 14.7:1 ratio for better fuel economy.
As noted, still 13/1 through the low and midrange so there is room to lean out "a bit" more if we had ECU control.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
eManage Blue should be a good & cheap solution to handle some basic upgrades!
And then there is the eManage Ultimate if you want more versatility.
And it saves you the trouble going to a stand-alone ECU, which for road use will be a lot of trouble both to program and keep the engine running well in all sorts of conditions.
And then there is the eManage Ultimate if you want more versatility.
And it saves you the trouble going to a stand-alone ECU, which for road use will be a lot of trouble both to program and keep the engine running well in all sorts of conditions.
Last edited by miataman on Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
We added mods at each stage...did not subtract any.yellowcoupe wrote:Dear Brian,
perhaps i didn't read the post thoroughly enough, but couldi ask if the 2nd dyno with the midpipe change also included the RS exhaust+AEM? Or was it with stock intake and stock muffler with just the midpipe change?
tks
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian is there any chance you could dyno the car with the header, rs and AEM intake and without the midpipe. I'd be curious if it had the same effect as earlier and just bumping up everything but the redline numbers or if in fact bumped up power at redline as well which i suspect. If you can't I understand as I don't know whether you have a dyno in the shop or not
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
It would be an interesting dyno and I will do it if we get the chance but I need to weld O2 bungs onto a stock midpipe to make that happen so don't hold your breath. We don't have the dyno here. The dyno is at local friends "Only Yesterday" which does VERY high end restoration work...original Cobras, Gt40s, etc. We take care of their often unusual tire mounting and balance needs (because our Steve Coe has been doing this since he worked for Dan Gurney's All-American Racers during both its GTP and Indycar eras.), and we get easy access to their incredible dyno setup.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian, so I understand; the new stainless steel RoadsterSport midpipe has a high-flow cat and a bigger resonator, is that right? It (the RS midpipe) can be used with the stock header / cat assembly, or with an aftermarket header such as the DC Sports header.
BTW, are there any headers currently available for the "general public"?
BTW, are there any headers currently available for the "general public"?
Brian, will it be possible you guys make the mid pipe without the cat attahed (replace the 2nd cat with resonator) I am still waiting for a full cat-back system (no cat in mid pipe) release. I've been waiting long enough. I really like your exhaust but the only draw back is the lack of mid-pipe for the application.