intake and alignment question, leasing my 2006 mx5

brians443 · Post by **brians443** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:48 am

This is my 3rd miata and I bought products off you before and loved the results.....

...I have about 2 more years left on my 39 month lease and was looking at possibly doing an intake... do you think it is going to a be a problem if I do the AEM one?? I could probably take it off if it isn't too much trouble.... also, which would you recommend for the bang for the buck??

What alignment specs would you recommend for a daily driver with the factory susp package?

thanks for your help,
Brian

Post by **Brian** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:21 am

The intake is easy to install and remove later...no permanent changes.

For a safe street alignment:

FRONT

-1.5 camber
zero toe
max caster

REAR

-1.0 camber
zero toe

Note that on stock car you won't get this much camber but take what you can get. For autocross we toe OUT the front but that can annoy on the freeway as it will encourage tramline effects. If tram line is an issue in your area try TOE IN the front 1/16th per side and the same at the rear.

brians443 · Post by **brians443** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:39 am

thanks for the quick response, I appreciate it...

in regards to the intake... what is the advantage of the AEM one compared to the Racing Beat one you sell?

Also, for a 2006, do you think it is worth getting a new shifter knob?? I know on my 94 it made a huge difference in regards to shifting.

thanks again.

Post by **Brian** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:48 am

I really like the Voodoo Magnum shift knob in mine...lowers and shortens the shift just a little.

The Racing Beat sits a little higher in the nose...and it is possible to get the Racing Beat in without taking off the nose (though I still think it easier to just pull the nose which is a 15 minute job on this car but for whatever reason that spooks folks).

rpmchris · Post by **rpmchris** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:00 pm

How about street alignment settings with Eibach spring & sway/Koni shocks and 17x8" 48ET & 235/40-17 wheel/tire combo?

For future reference - still trying to sell my bike!

Post by **Brian** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 2:18 pm

Same....

I am currently running about twice the negative camber for race tire use and slightly toe out up front but in the real world much higher negative camber than what I have listed above can cause adverse tire wear.

jaball77 · Post by **jaball77** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 6:07 am

Brian wrote:FRONT

-1.5 camber
zero toe
max caster

REAR

-1.0 camber
zero toe

You recommend a half degree more camber in the front than in the rear? Or is this a typo?

I've got the MazdaSpeed springs/shocks/swaybars and I'm looking to adjust my alignment... -1.5 camber/toe out front, -1.6 camber/0 toe rear seemed a little pushy last weekend on the asphalt lot autox... I thought about going up to -1.8 in the front...

Do the new multilink rears require less static camber than the old double wishbone cars? Did you notice it with the RX-8 too?

Post by **Brian** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 7:22 am

Yes, the multi-link rear has a much more aggressive camber curve. We found early on with the RX8 that if we ran the same camber front and rear that the rear tire temps were very uneven and that we had to back down the rear camber to get temps nice and even. Currently our RX8 has 2.2 negative front camber and 1.7 rear. Got even more on the NC which is running Hoosiers for autocross currently but with similar .5 difference between front and rear.

jaball77 · Post by **jaball77** » Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:02 am

Interesting stuff... Maybe I'll shoot for -1.7F, -1.2R and see what happens.

Thanks!