I am unsure of the exact differences in the engine bay between the LHD and RHD cars but do you think the installation would be the same?
The only thing I can think of is the brake servo but I can't tell from your photos.
Here is a photo of my engine bay:
Header Installation
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As long as the steering column and brake booster are behind the plane of the heat shield, it should not be a problem. You pull the OEM header mostly up and forward to get it out. That A/C line running over the top may interfere with pulling the stock header out. You have to rotate the OEM unit about 45 degrees to get it out by pulling up on the front, the center of rotation is the cat, if that makes sense. I thought that some of the guys from the UK have already done header installs.
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I know of one person who has done the headers in the UK but he said it was not a DIY job and his mechanic took 5 hours to do it! And he said that the original headers had to be removed from the underside of the car and that an engine mount and under tray needed to be removed!
I can not see why it would not be the same as the US installation which is why I asked. I think if the same installation guide can be followed I will have no problems doing it myself.
I can not see why it would not be the same as the US installation which is why I asked. I think if the same installation guide can be followed I will have no problems doing it myself.
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- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:26 am
If I had to pull it out the bottom, I would have charged 5 hours too. The guy may not have known to tilt the alternator for clearance. I still think that A/C line may be problematic if it lies above the manifold. On a scale of 1-10, I would put the install at a 6-7 as it is working in tight spaces and needs a lot of tool selection to get at the fasteners. I bought a set of swivel head rachet wrenches before I tackled it. I wrenched for a few years professionally, so it was easy for me to understand what to do and keep myself out of trouble. Plus I have a large selection of tools and an air compressor. It's not for the guy that rotates tires and changes his own oil, IMHO. It is basic stuff, but a challenge nonetheless.
I spent about 3 hours, but I really took my time and worked on it over several days.
I spent about 3 hours, but I really took my time and worked on it over several days.
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- Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2008 10:22 am
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- Posts: 242
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:26 am
I would also be concerned about the steering shaft, judging by the LHD car, it looks like it may be low enough to not be a concern, but definitely another obstruction to work around. Going down with the header does seem like the hard way. Between Japan, Oz and the UK somebody must have done a DIY install. The A/C line will not be a problem as long as it is behind the heat shield, just can't tell exactly where it goes from your pic. I thought I would not have to undo the heater lines till I got ready to pull it out the top.
Had a customer, Nic Grossi, successfully install a Racing Beat header onto his NC Miata with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. To the previous installation notes he adds:
To avoid the "check engine light" I used a RoadsterSport
mid-pipe and placed one O2 sensor in header and the other in the
mid-pipe behind the Cat. That mid-pipe comes with threaded hole already
so the installation is as easy.
>From all the forums I've read the main problem with the installation in
the automatic is that it vibrates and rattles against the bell housing
because it is larger in the auto trany. WRONG! In the automatic there
is a bracket that has a useless ear (used to route the clutch cable in
the manual) that can be grinded down and removed. Once that is done It
fits perfect.
I will provide many photos in the near future of exactly what I'm
talking about. I'm not sure that the average DIY mechanic should
attempt this installation because of the grinding down of the ear. I
would put the following verbiage in the description:
Fitment for an Automatic Transmission includes several extra steps and
can only be installed with a modification to a bracket attached to the
transmission bell housing. The modification requires the bracket
attached to the transmission is removed and the "ear" that extends from
the bracket is grind down so that it does not extend out beyond the bell
housing flange, then reinstalled. Those uncomfortable with this type of
modification should not attempt the installation.
To avoid the "check engine light" I used a RoadsterSport
mid-pipe and placed one O2 sensor in header and the other in the
mid-pipe behind the Cat. That mid-pipe comes with threaded hole already
so the installation is as easy.
>From all the forums I've read the main problem with the installation in
the automatic is that it vibrates and rattles against the bell housing
because it is larger in the auto trany. WRONG! In the automatic there
is a bracket that has a useless ear (used to route the clutch cable in
the manual) that can be grinded down and removed. Once that is done It
fits perfect.
I will provide many photos in the near future of exactly what I'm
talking about. I'm not sure that the average DIY mechanic should
attempt this installation because of the grinding down of the ear. I
would put the following verbiage in the description:
Fitment for an Automatic Transmission includes several extra steps and
can only be installed with a modification to a bracket attached to the
transmission bell housing. The modification requires the bracket
attached to the transmission is removed and the "ear" that extends from
the bracket is grind down so that it does not extend out beyond the bell
housing flange, then reinstalled. Those uncomfortable with this type of
modification should not attempt the installation.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com