canyon carver suspension setup

[halfpint]

Brian - what don't you like about the aftermarket Bilsteins?

FWIW, I have the Bilsteins with Progress springs and I'm very happy with the ride, just not happy with the ride height.

[Brian]

Brian - what don't you like about the aftermarket Bilsteins?

FWIW, I have the Bilsteins with Progress springs and I'm very happy with the ride, just not happy with the ride height.

I just think Tokico did the best job on this particular application. Shocks are a funny thing, sometimes one maker just gets the formula right for one application....but then blows it on the next application. For example, for the NA and NB I don't like the Tokico adjustables. But for the NC I think Tokico really did a great job on the valving choices...and the result works amazing well with our various aftermarket spring choices, better controlled, more planted, than the Bilsteins, or the Koni. I like the koni for the stock class autocrossers because they are stuck with stock springs and need the lowering that the KONI will provide with stock springs (they need the negative camber).

So, the KONI is my top choice for all NA and NB users....and the KONI are a strong second choice for the NC (first choice for NC autocrossers in stock class). The koni also works great for those with NC who want the Progress or Racing Beat springs....but with additional lowering. Nothing wrong with the Bilstein shocks, I just prefer the Tokico and Koni. And as noted, once we get into the coilovers then the story changes again because I really like the PSS10 and KW choices (the OHLINS is the gold standard...but substantially more expensive).

[matthew-m]

I have come into some money (always bad ) and I'm wondering what does the extra ~$1500 get for the Bilstein PSS10 or Ohlins, compared to the Progress Springs and Tokico shocks recommended earlier - Durability? Weight savings? Comfort in daily driving? How easy is it to replace/repair the shocks, compared to the Tokico?

What else is needed for a complete install - bump stops, etc?

On a related question, are swaybars necessary, considering the daily use and back road driving I do? If so, what do you recommend?

I also noticed the engine brace on the suspension page. Would it solve the difficulty I have been experiencing getting into third gear? The problem seems to be occurring at all times, not just under extreme conditions.

It is also time to replace the brakes. Is it possible to save weight, without going to a big brake kit? I had no problems with the stock items (very low dust, long life - 50k), but I would like to save more weight.

Final question, unrelated to the above items: Which Cobalt wind blocker is 'better' - the mesh or plastic?

Thanks in advance for any advice given!

[Brian]

Coilovers are not about durability, weight savings, or ride comfort. The purpose of coilovers is full PRECISE control over heights of each corner, because each unit is threaded body. You have the freedom to change height at any time, and the racers will "corner balance" their cars with their weight in the driver's seat. The Ohlins are also lighter but that's a side benefit of the aluminum construction. The coilover kits are complete with bumpstops.

Sway bar upgrades are not "necessary" but those seeking to maximize performance will find them beneficial to performance.

On the engine brace, does not sound like your shifting issue is related to the engine rocking. Therefore, the brace would not solve your shifting issue.

The big brakes would be overkill on a street car, but would help ride quality (lower unsprung weight).

[senda]

Brian

For AX what will be the different between the KW 1 and Koni + racing beat springs.

I have the Koni + racing beat and i think it is time to chage...

[Brian]

The KW1 would give precise height control for corner balance....but you would give up the damping control you have with the Koni. Thus, I would not make the change unless you want something like the KW3.

[senda]

The kw3 is a little over my bugget for now.

I drove a miata with the kw1 and it felt better than the Koni.

We have a Miata with the KW1 in the AX and it was much faster that the rest of us - i do not know if this the KW or the driver

[jboemler]

We have a Miata with the KW1 in the AX and it was much faster that the rest of us - i do not know if this the KW or the driver

I know which one I'd bet on.

[Brian]

I agree with Jim, the KW1 is a good product but so are the KONI sport shocks and in that battle it will be the driver.

[matthew-m]

[quote="Brian"]Coilovers are not about durability, weight savings, or ride comfort. The purpose of coilovers is full PRECISE control over heights of each corner, because each unit is threaded body. You have the freedom to change height at any time, and the racers will "corner balance" their cars with their weight in the driver's seat. The Ohlins are also lighter but that's a side benefit of the aluminum construction. The coilover kits are complete with bumpstops.

Sway bar upgrades are not "necessary" but those seeking to maximize performance will find them beneficial to performance.

On the engine brace, does not sound like your shifting issue is related to the engine rocking. Therefore, the brace would not solve your shifting issue.

The big brakes would be overkill on a street car, but would help ride quality (lower unsprung weight).[/quote]

I now understand the advantage of coilovers. I think I will stick with your original recommendation and use the $1500 "saved" towards other parts. Should I order new bump stops with the springs and shocks? Are the factory pieces OK? I will hold on the sway bar and see how the springs/shocks change the car.

Are their any other "easy" ways to reduce unsprung weight? From the big brake description, it appears the weight reduction is mostly from switching the caliper to aluminum. Can I do that without changing the rotors? Thanks again!