Our New 2012 PRHT SS Project....

[Chuck H]

I think these cars just like quite a bit of camber, even at stock or close to stock ride height.

I ended up going to a Miata specialist for an alignment after I installed Progress springs and sways as well. He ended up setting me up with 5.5 deg of caster, 1.2 deg camber up front and 2.0 deg in back. I'm also running 1/16" total toe in front and 1/8" in back. I had previously tried zero toe all around and found it too twitchy on the highway for my taste. If I were to change anything, I might have him add a little more camber up front for the summer, like maybe 1.5 deg in front and 2.0 deg in back.

[Va MX5]

Folks,

This is a follow up to my earlier post on the alignment specs I choose to use. Since the alignment, I have driven 2,000+ street miles and run 4 full day HPDE events on my Michelin PS2 tires ( Tires are rotated after every 2 track days ). Remembering this is a dual purpose car for me, the handling / cornering characteristics are excellent and tire wear is very minimal & very acceptable. While I am likely to continue experimenting when making future upgrades or tire changes ( most likely to be a little more camber in the rear ), these have proven to be a great base line settings with my car for it's intended use. I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a reasonable starting point when upgrading your alignment settings for the first time.

Regards to all.

[Flex]

2006 NC with -1°55' rear camber, about -3.5 cm. stance, 225/45 Advan Neova on 17x8 ET48 rims, has a very slight contact on right side unmodified fender. Car runs fine as is, but I'd say this is the limit: few mm. lower offset or a bit less camber, and you need a light fender roll.
We found out that NCs are slightly asymmetric, so the first fender to rub is always the right one

Brian, do I need to buy any extension cord to install GWR Street header ? I'd like the easiest possible installation job, so if any of the extension cord can be useful I need to know (maybe 2nd sensor only ?)
Does the dyno chart on page 8 compare GWR Street header vs. OEM header only, or does it include midpipe swap too ?
Thanks

[Brian]

Street header is plug and play, no extensions needed.

Yes, this car has the midpipe too

[Flex]

ok thanks, but what I am missing is: does the chart compares GWR Street header + GWR midpipe Vs. OEM header + GWR midpipe, OR: GWR Street header + GWR midpipe Vs. OEM header + OEM midpipe ?

[Brian]

That chart compares totally stock.....and after install of complete exhaust setup (RoadsterSport Street Header, RoadsterSport Midpipe and RoadsterSport Q exhaust).

[jkjcorp]

Under Guard (1x needed, Mazda Part # n121-56-1e0c)

Under Guard bolts (5x needed, Mazda part # 9946-30-616). These screw into existing holes that already have nuts welded on opposite sides of the OEM braces. If you changed out the OEM steel brace for one from IL Motorsports or Beatrush, then you will have to get 3 nuts to hold the screws that go on the new braces. IL Motorsports supplies the nuts and also the long, thin plate that holds the little flap on the Under Guard. Check their PDF instruction manual NC0-0963 for complete info.

Transmission Cover (1x needed, Mazda part# ne85-56-1a0b)

Transmission Cover screws (2x needed, Mazda part #9946-30-612). Like the Under Guard, these also screw into existing holes with nuts already on them. But if you changed out both the OEM front- and X-braces, then you will have to supply 2 nuts. Again, the IL Motorsport braces come with the nuts, but not the screws. These are the same sized screws as the one for the Under Guard, except a little tiny bit longer. You can forgo ordering two different screws and just go with one as I didn’t see any difference when I installed them. These screws are metric sizes you can get from the hardware stores, except they have extra wide washer-style heads so you don’t have to use a washer. Probably available from Mazda USA.

Transmission Cover flange cap nuts (2x needed, Mazda part# B100-68-615). These are plastic nuts that go into existing bolts sticking out from the car. There are some already holding other parts under the car, so I think Mazda USA probably has them.

I got all the parts from MX5Parts.co.uk for about $300 delivered, with the BP exchange rate currently at $1.5, which is extremely good. The parts they sent me came from Wolverhampton Mazda in England. You might be able to get it from them directly but their shipping might cost more.

[Ranfy]

Brian, I have a 2007 PRHT GT with the Bilstein sport suspension package. I had a Mini Cooper which had flat, no body roll, cornering but a very harsh ride. I don't like the amount of body roll on my MX5, but don't want a harsh ride on my daily commute. What do you recommend?

[Brian]

Brian, I have a 2007 PRHT GT with the Bilstein sport suspension package. I had a Mini Cooper which had flat, no body roll, cornering but a very harsh ride. I don't like the amount of body roll on my MX5, but don't want a harsh ride on my daily commute. What do you recommend?

The 2007 sits HIGH....my suggestion is start with just the Progress springs. That alone will make a big difference because it will fix the center of gravity and give you enough spring rate to reduce squat, dive, and quite a bit of the roll in the turns. If after the springs you want more, then let's talk about HOW MUCH more you want. If just a little then I would say our Racing Beat sways. And if you want a lot more reduction in body roll after the springs then I would say add the Progress Sways. My wife's car rides great with both, yet is very flat....but our roads are good here in San Diego and every choice is a compromise and might as well take it just one step at a time.

[projectrally]

Brian,

Earlier on in this thread, you mentioned working on an Air Dam for the NC2. Any progress on that front?