Brian wrote: The 1.75 is not bad for long tube, and 1.8 is better even for stock compression, which is why we will be offering both our shortie and the PPE in 1.8.
what advantages brings the 1.8 shortie over the 1.8 PPE (on mild tuned 2.5 for example) that it is worth to produce that 1.8 shortie at all?
I would think that the longtube delivers more torque and high rpm should be very very close one to the 'nother, so who takes the shortie at all... just thinking...
ARE YOU SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE YOUR QUESTION BACKWARDS?
In theory the long tube sometimes makes more torque, in reality it rarely has turned out to have any significant advantage on the Miata application. I think it is hard to read the data in this thread and conclude that the long tube is worth the trouble compared to the shorty. The data we have seen suggests the results on numbers are now very close between 1.62 long tube and 1.62 shorty and yet the shorty is much easier and gives you more options on midpipe choice and sound results. One customer at Miata.net jumped from Max Power 1.62 to PPE in 1.75 after a certain Tuner made lots of noise there about the long tube being better and that customer reported his own before and after dyno results: he LOST power in the move to the bigger long tube. So much for theory. That's on the NC, check our ND results on dyno in this forum in our ND measurements thread where we have already done dyno testing of both the Global Cup Car Long tube against a prototype shorty, both in 1.62 size tube, and the TORQUE king by a mile so far on ND is the shorty, see the dyno we posted in that thread. Again theory only gets you do far, blindly following theory is a mistake.
Then there is the fact the shorty is much easier to install, whether in 1.6 or 1.8 inch size we are working on for NC. Most customers not interested in jacking up the motor after disconnecting motor mounts just to install a header, which is only needed for the long tube. And the shorty has lifetime warranty you don't get with the long tube. And the shorty gives you the option of the Helmholtz midpipe to make the result sound MUCH better than you get with any other option. Thus, seems to me you have not really thought about the question you are asking and may have the question backwards, you should be asking if the long tube is worth the trouble rather than if the new 1.8 inch shorty is worth the trouble. If the more challenging install long tube headers can't decisively show better results on power and sound quality, then what's the point? The only long tube that has shown me a significant leap in performance is Motoeast Mike's custom 2.0 inch on built motors, but that comes with big price tag and the install challenge and the wait to get one and the lack of Helmholtz to make the sound result what many will tolerate in daily driver.
You have asked essentially the same question in two threads, so see my much more extension answer in the other thread.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Hey, Brian, did you need a spacer for the rims (Enkei PF01SS, 50mm, 17x8) you are using on blue with the Wilwood brake kit?
I got my Wilwood big brakes for the front a couple of weeks ago and installed them. I am holding off on rims and tires until I wear out what I got. The thing that kills me about those Wilwood big brakes is that each spacer weighs 1.2 lbs!!! Yuck! Even worse, the spacers cover up those beautiful wilwood logos on the hats. I am probably going to sell the damn things on craigslist and buying some properly fitted aluminum spacers.
Severe flooding early this month put our dyno under 3 feet of water (see pics posted to our facebook page). That delayed a few things and the dyno not yet back in working order. My best guess now is that we lost a month and we are looking at late February.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
