NC crank key
Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:53 am
Brian,
I'm in the process of building a strong bottom end for my NC with a 2.5L block. Using low compression Carrillo rods and CP pistons prior to adding an HKS SC. Target 15psi and max rpm 7400.
The crank engineers are suggesting that using two woodruff keys for the timing sprocket and the front pulley rather than a single straight key as per Cosworth and others.They are also saying that the loose fit (2 thou) of the OEM sprocket and pulley should be made an "interference fit" buy metal spraying the crank nose.
My view is that the OEM (robot friendly) friction fitting may require the loose fit and that the key should be added as security rather than an alternative method to a correctly torqued new nose bolt.
Brian I would be grateful if you could add anything to help me decide on the best course of action.
John
Brisbane Australia
I'm in the process of building a strong bottom end for my NC with a 2.5L block. Using low compression Carrillo rods and CP pistons prior to adding an HKS SC. Target 15psi and max rpm 7400.
The crank engineers are suggesting that using two woodruff keys for the timing sprocket and the front pulley rather than a single straight key as per Cosworth and others.They are also saying that the loose fit (2 thou) of the OEM sprocket and pulley should be made an "interference fit" buy metal spraying the crank nose.
My view is that the OEM (robot friendly) friction fitting may require the loose fit and that the key should be added as security rather than an alternative method to a correctly torqued new nose bolt.
Brian I would be grateful if you could add anything to help me decide on the best course of action.
John
Brisbane Australia