NC allignment

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scottalej
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 1:24 pm

NC allignment

Post by scottalej »

I'd appreciate your advice for allignment for my 2011 PRHT 2.0 which is lowered on stiffer springs (Front: 70 N/mm Rear: 50 N/mm) with koni sport shocks. It sits at 325mm front and 320mm rear. It also has a 300 bhp turbo conversion. I'm looking for a stable fast road setup for twisty roads with predictable on the limit handling (for wet roads) and even tyre wear. Toe also in degrees if possible.
Brian
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Re: NC allignment

Post by Brian »

ALIGNMENT:

Alignment depends much on what you do with the car. Assuming no autocross or track use, for pure street driving my suggestion is:

Front Camber -1.2
Toe IN 1/32nd per side (some shops call this 1/16th 'total' toe in).
Caster 6

Rear Camber -1.2
Toe IN 1/32nd per side

Autocross customers will often toe OUT the front, track users often toe ZERO front and rear. You might find you cannot get these numbers on the camber, take what you can get. So, if you can only get to 1.1 negative each side, take that. If you can get 1.4 negative, take it as long as you can get it both right and left side.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
ScottM489
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:22 am
Location: Steeler Nation

Re: NC allignment

Post by ScottM489 »

Brian wrote:ALIGNMENT:

Alignment depends much on what you do with the car. Assuming no autocross or track use, for pure street driving my suggestion is:

Front Camber -1.2
Toe IN 1/32nd per side (some shops call this 1/16th 'total' toe in).
Caster 6

Rear Camber -1.2
Toe IN 1/32nd per side

Autocross customers will often toe OUT the front, track users often toe ZERO front and rear. You might find you cannot get these numbers on the camber, take what you can get. So, if you can only get to 1.1 negative each side, take that. If you can get 1.4 negative, take it as long as you can get it both right and left side.

Hi Brian,

Would mainly an AutoX setup for an ND be the same or is the ND a different setup?
Brian
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Re: NC allignment

Post by Brian »

Autocross setup is different, see Andy Holis article current Grassroots. He gives up caster to get as much camber as he can at heights allowed for Stock/Street class...which is about half an inch under stock height if you use KONI SPORT shocks with stock springs. The Koni shocks are legal because same length as stock shocks per the rules... yet lower pressure and that helps get you more camber because car sits lower.

Once on coilovers for STR the game changes again, and not a lot of agreement because lots of room for personal preference. Thus, for STR I can tell you what I like, typically 2.8 negative camber front, 2.2 negative rear and slight tow out at the front, zero or slight rear tow in. Often for track days I will 'fix' that tow to zero.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
1200bruce
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 4:44 pm
Location: Port Angeles WA

Re: NC allignment

Post by 1200bruce »

Thanks Brian.
2008 Miata GT 6 speed man. RHT
mdw1000
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2017 8:27 pm

Re: NC allignment

Post by mdw1000 »

Brian,

What about a car on the stock "sport" suspension that is mostly street driven but used for a few autocross events a year? Would you just recommend using your street alignment settings above?

Thanks!
Brian
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Re: NC allignment

Post by Brian »

Same....or as near these settings as you can get at stock height (you likely will not get this much camber, take what you can get as long as you even up the numbers side to side.


Front Camber -1.2
Toe IN 1/32nd per side (some shops call this 1/16th 'total' toe in).
Caster 6

Rear Camber -1.2
Toe IN 1/32nd per side
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
mdw1000
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2017 8:27 pm

Re: NC allignment

Post by mdw1000 »

Thanks, Brian!

Local shop was able to get -1.2 up front on stock suspension.
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