Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Miata Parts, Intakes, Superchargers, Headers, Exhausts, Shocks, Springs, Sway Bars, Brake Kits, Autocross and track mods.
avera01
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:20 pm

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by avera01 »

The front brakes are Wilwood LBBK.

As for the clunking sound, I think I found the problem. The passenger end link appeared to be defective since the gasket was off the ball area and the two rings clamps loose and flopping freely plus the was a little give the connection as though the bolt was not tight.

However in trying to remove I ran into a new problem. At first I tried to tighten it using a hand wrench and Allen tool. Did not seem to tighten so I decided to take it off. The top nut came off easily, but the bottom nut or bolt is shredded (inside the nut area) perhaps from being over tighten by the shop.

I can’t remove the bottom nut, the bolt turns but the nut stays in place. When I first checked the endlinks, I did not check the bottom part as the tire was still on and it was hard to see the bottom part.

Drove the car slowly without the one endlink attached and no noise! Either straight, backing out of driveway or easy left turn, silent. I did not check the driver side since the noise was gone but so was the SB effectively. Was very careful and the SB was quite secure.

I have given up on these adjustable links (since I am not lowering the car) and going to replace them with the stock end link. However I can’t think of anyway of removing the nut without using a Dremel to cut it off, not enough space to cut the bolt.

Before I do any cutting, any issue with the sparks thrown off while cutting? I don’t want to have a major problem (i.e, explosion). Or does anyone else have a suggestion for removing the nut?
avera01
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:20 pm

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by avera01 »

Problem resolved, it was the endlink. Again thanks to GWR for sending a replacement link. It appears that the nut shredded on install. The bolt threads are good, no apparent damage. Had to cut the nut off to remove and replace the assembly. Didn't take too long.

I think the issue with the rubber gasket and ring clamps is the use of a power tool on the Allen bolt while holding the nut steadfast with a wrench. The rapid turning of the bolt would cause the gasket to bind and pinch off the "head" part. Not a big deal in re-attaching it. The power tool was first used, after the nut was screwed in place by hand, to move the nut along the bolt. Then it was tightened and torque by hand.

Will hold onto the OEM endlinks as backup.
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