Wilwood Rear Brakes Question
Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 5:17 pm
Have already installed your Wilwood LBBK with the 12.19" rotors. After the full fluid flush with DOT 4 and rear SS brake lines, I really like how the car brakes and the brake pedal feels; very solid.
Considering the rear brake after one of my local club members did the full LBBK and claims that after adjusting the e-brake handle, the rear brakes firmly holds his car (2016 club). Bear in mind we both live on south Florida and the terrain is fairly flat.
I am now planning on doing the the rear and was wondering two things:
1) does the rear brake need to be bedded the same way as the front? Since the front has already be bedded and the rear does a lot less of the braking, I just thought that it may not be necessary or at least not to the extreme level of bedding as applied to the front. Will consider replacing the rotors with the Centrix version or which ever brand comes E-coated so that the edge and inside ring area does not rust as much as the stock plus alleviate the issue with cleaning the stock rotors from the stock pad film.
2) If just replacing the rear calipers, to what extent does one need to do a complete bleed in the line? I understand the rear two calipers, but don't see the logic for bleeding the front.
Just asking general questions as I am planning on doing the rear myself, had the front done by a local tech.
Considering the rear brake after one of my local club members did the full LBBK and claims that after adjusting the e-brake handle, the rear brakes firmly holds his car (2016 club). Bear in mind we both live on south Florida and the terrain is fairly flat.
I am now planning on doing the the rear and was wondering two things:
1) does the rear brake need to be bedded the same way as the front? Since the front has already be bedded and the rear does a lot less of the braking, I just thought that it may not be necessary or at least not to the extreme level of bedding as applied to the front. Will consider replacing the rotors with the Centrix version or which ever brand comes E-coated so that the edge and inside ring area does not rust as much as the stock plus alleviate the issue with cleaning the stock rotors from the stock pad film.
2) If just replacing the rear calipers, to what extent does one need to do a complete bleed in the line? I understand the rear two calipers, but don't see the logic for bleeding the front.
Just asking general questions as I am planning on doing the rear myself, had the front done by a local tech.