Miata Parts, Intakes, Superchargers, Headers, Exhausts, Shocks, Springs, Sway Bars, Brake Kits, Autocross and track mods.
I recently purchased a used NC1 with a supercharger. I'm experiencing difficulty shifting from 2 to 3 in the higher rpm range. From what I can gather driveline twits is the culprit. I'm also hearing a clunk when shifting which leads me to believe the diff bushings are torn. My main focus with the car is as a daily with spirited weekend driving maybe some autocross once I'm confident I've found all the bugs that come along with a used car.
There are 3 options for engine mounts and 2 options for diff bushings. I think the description of the 70 durometer diff bushings are what I want, but I'm unsure of what engine mounts to go with.
Also is it possible to remove the diff carrier bracket without removing the differential from the car? Is there room to lower the diff to get enough room to unbolt the bracket?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri May 31, 2019 8:23 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
For street car my strong suggestion is our mounts that are still mostly rubber....it's just harder rubber. We race on these in our latest Budget NC Racer with more torque thanks to upgraded 2.5 and our car shifts smooth! The 70 duro engine mounts and more we do have, but there is a real downside in daily NVH added. 70 duro poly diff mounts at the back work fine without as much issue as having that mostly metal 70 duro engine mount at the front attached to the motor.RoadsterSport MX-5 Competition Motor Mounts
We pull the diff from the car to do this work, perhaps there is some ingenious way to do it in the car, if so we have not discovered it.
- Site Admin
- Posts: 9035
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
- Location: San Diego CA
Return to Mazda Miata and Fiat 124
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: MSN [Bot] and 4 guests