Roadstersport Midpipe Installation

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.
dmicah
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:02 pm
Location: Seattle

Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by dmicah »

3 Years later, I have upgraded my NC to the Helmholz version of this midpipe. Of course I like the new sound way better. Brian has cautioned that the new midpipe is louder on the good stuff, and it is, maybe a tad. But the boom and drone are nicely deleted.

2 notes:

1. If you're upgrading like me, you might have bracing on the bottom of the car. I have the ILM Butterfly, X, and Front braces. If you remove a GWR midpipe, it has the slip joint in the middle, and I found that I didn't have to remove my butterfly or front braces -- just the X brace. I was able to disassemble the old pipe and reassemble the new pipe through the remaining braces. That was good, because I've had some problems seating the butterfly and didn't want to remove it.

2. Brian: I realize that I don't get your post on the header studs. Mine looked like either of these when I pulled them:

Image
Image

But I had no problem reinserting and bolting them to the header exit. Am I looking at a disaster in the future?

Finally, if anyone lives near Seattle and wants an original GWR pipe, I have one. Could be nice for those with turbos etc. that don't need Helmholz. Come by with a bottle of Rye or Bourbon and it's yours.
Brian
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by Brian »

Yep, those are stock header studs and nuts, often can't get the nuts separated but re-use like that is fine.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
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XiaoranC684
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2016 5:29 pm

Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by XiaoranC684 »

GutBomb wrote:I installed this and the super q muffler on my otherwise stock 2013 5MT Sport last week and love the sound, so thanks so much for making it. I did have a few install issues and since I can't seem to find "official" installation instructions (unless this thread is official) I have a couple of questions.

1.) Is this thread the official installation instructions?
1a.) If not, where are the official instructions :)

2.) One of the header studs came out with the nut, the other one stayed in and I was able to remove just the nut. Right now, I acquired a simple bolt that I am using in conjunction with a washer and the existing spring holding in that side. I torqued it to the same spec that the stud/spring/nut combo is supposed to be torqued down to, but since this is different than the stud/spring/nut combo should the torque specs still be the same? This is just temporary anyway as I've ordered the proper stud and nut and they should be here soon.

3.) Gaskets! I don't have a question about the midpipe to muffler gasket, that's all set. The midpipe to header connection though I'm less clear on. Was I supposed to reuse the factory gasket (it looks like braided metal)

Image

Or was I supposed to go without a gasket. In all of the installation threads on this and other forums I haven't seen anything about gaskets for this connection.

In my haste to install, and the lack of any mention of gaskets for this connection anywhere, I don't actually know if I reused the factory gasket or not. I've checked the end of the factory midpipe and there's no gasket stuck to it, so I'm assuming it's still on the stock header, which is now connected to the RS midpipe. I'll be checking that to be sure when I put the proper stud/nut/spring on after it arrives.

4.) I've done about 100 miles so far on the midpipe/super q muffler combo and at first it sounded very bassy on decel but that's decreased a little bit and has been replaced by an awesome rumble/burble sound. This is the sound I was hoping for, but I'm neurotic so I'm looking for validation that this should be the proper evolution of the sound as the exhaust breaks in, rather than it being evidence of a leak or other problem.

5.) When I first did the install the protruding part of the slip joint clamp was facing downwards and was making contact with the X-brace as I drove and creating a very annoying rattle. I got back under the car after the test drive and moved it so the protruding part is facing the left side of the car instead of the ground. The rattle is 99% gone, however when going over larger bumps I do hear contact being made under the car that sounds exactly the same as that X-brace contact before. I've tried moving the pipe and muffler around on all of the bushings but I can't find a position where this doesn't occasionally happen over bumps. Do you have any advice? I thought about maybe putting a large hose clamp around the bushing that holds the midpipe in order to force it to raise up a bit, but I don't know if that would reduce the amount of flex needed while driving. Any ideas?

6.) Finally, today while driving to work at about the 30 minute mark of mostly slow traffic I finally hit clear road (as I was about to enter my office's parking lot). I was in 2nd gear and it felt like I was only getting half of the power I should. Like, it felt like I was trying to accelerate from low speed in 4th gear but was definitely in 2nd. If I had a leak from the header to the midpipe because of a possibly missing gasket and/or possible leak because of the non-standard bold/spring instead of stud/spring/nut could that cause such a dramatic loss in power? The engine didn't sound any different than it usually does so I don't think I lost a cylinder. I also drove later in the day and drove the exact same stretch of road and it felt normal. Do you think it could be related or could be something else?

Sorry for the long-winded and question filled first post but hopefully if someone comes along in the future with the same questions they can be helped by this too.
I didn't see any gaskets after I removed the stock mid pipe from the stock header on my NC 2013. Would that be an issue in the future if I just went ahead without the gaskets?
Brian
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by Brian »

I doubt the gaskets got left out, you would know IMMEDIATELY BECAUSE IT WOULD BE LOUD, REALLY LOUD.
Brian Goodwin
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XiaoranC684
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by XiaoranC684 »

Haha, the mid pipe sounds really good with the super sport Q exhausts, it's quieter but also more enjoyable, when top up, the drone sound is completely gone, can't wait to get the header next year =)

Good job Brain.
Brian
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by Brian »

Our Fiat Midpipe is precisely the same install as NC generation Midpipe, so bumping this back to the top to make sure it is easy to find.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Yo Tom
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by Yo Tom »

Brian wrote:It would be pretty near impossible to get wrong. The plugs on the extension cords are not the same, they are unique to each of the sensors. Thus, the front sensor only gets extended something like 17 inches, which is enough to reach first hole in the midpipe and NOT far enough to reach the back hole. The rear sensor gets extended more than double that 17 inches so it can reach the rear hole in the midpipe. Thus, the O2 sensor order really cannot be screwed up.
Any comment to eliminate CEL code? I completed install of ceramic coated header and Helmholz mid pipe to super Q exhaust. Easy plug and play installation with Good-Win Forum instructions. Great sounding result and I believe quicker revving and more HP as other posts comment. My 2014 Miata CEL (check engine light) came on after first 10 minute drive. I disconnected and reconnected the negative battery cable that did turn off the CEL. Restart of Miata turned the CEL back on. Both O2 sensors are connected okay. Plastic O2 extension connectors are away from the mid pipe okay. No melting of connectors seen at all. Tight connectors pass a wiggle test. With my installation I had added aluminum foil wrap of O2 sensor extension connectors with zip ties. I thought the aluminum could help protect the plastic connector. Any advice?
Brian
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Re: Roadstersport Midpipe Installation NC, ND, Fiat 124

Post by Brian »

Something not right with sensor installs. Let's check your extension cables, sometimes the pins get pushed too far back, look into each plug at pin positions, are they all equally forward? While at it, use multimeter to check conductivity from one plug to same spot in the other plug, to double check they are wired correctly. The maker has an electric check setup of all of them before they ship to us but should check that. Also make sure no wires pinched over at 90 degree angle as they exit the sensor, that will cause instant code too, they breath through the back of the sensor.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Yo Tom
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Post by Yo Tom »

Yo Tom wrote:
Brian wrote:It would be pretty near impossible to get wrong. The plugs on the extension cords are not the same, they are unique to each of the sensors. Thus, the front sensor only gets extended something like 17 inches, which is enough to reach first hole in the midpipe and NOT far enough to reach the back hole. The rear sensor gets extended more than double that 17 inches so it can reach the rear hole in the midpipe. Thus, the O2 sensor order really cannot be screwed up.
Any comment to eliminate CEL code? I completed install of ceramic coated header and Helmholz mid pipe to super Q exhaust. Easy plug and play installation with Good-Win Forum instructions. Great sounding result and I believe quicker revving and more HP as other posts comment. My 2014 Miata CEL (check engine light) came on after first 10 minute drive. I disconnected and reconnected the negative battery cable that did turn off the CEL. Restart of Miata turned the CEL back on. Both O2 sensors are connected okay. Plastic O2 extension connectors are away from the mid pipe okay. No melting of connectors seen at all. Tight connectors pass a wiggle test. With my installation I had added aluminum foil wrap of O2 sensor extension connectors with zip ties. I thought the aluminum could help protect the plastic connector. Any advice?
Brian wrote:Something not right with sensor installs. Let's check your extension cables, sometimes the pins get pushed too far back, look into each plug at pin positions, are they all equally forward? While at it, use multimeter to check conductivity from one plug to same spot in the other plug, to double check they are wired correctly. The maker has an electric check setup of all of them before they ship to us but should check that. Also make sure no wires pinched over at 90 degree angle as they exit the sensor, that will cause instant code too, they breath through the back of the sensor.
Yo Tom wrote:
Brian wrote:It would be pretty near impossible to get wrong. The plugs on the extension cords are not the same, they are unique to each of the sensors. Thus, the front sensor only gets extended something like 17 inches, which is enough to reach first hole in the midpipe and NOT far enough to reach the back hole. The rear sensor gets extended more than double that 17 inches so it can reach the rear hole in the midpipe. Thus, the O2 sensor order really cannot be screwed up.
UPDATE: Brian your advice to check 02 sensor connector with multi meter was spot on. 2 wires were not pushed far enough into the connector for contact. Simple fix to push the wires back into the connector. No CEL codes after this fix. Many thanks for the Forum!


Any comment to eliminate CEL code? I completed install of ceramic coated header and Helmholz mid pipe to super Q exhaust. Easy plug and play installation with Good-Win Forum instructions. Great sounding result and I believe quicker revving and more HP as other posts comment. My 2014 Miata CEL (check engine light) came on after first 10 minute drive. I disconnected and reconnected the negative battery cable that did turn off the CEL. Restart of Miata turned the CEL back on. Both O2 sensors are connected okay. Plastic O2 extension connectors are away from the mid pipe okay. No melting of connectors seen at all. Tight connectors pass a wiggle test. With my installation I had added aluminum foil wrap of O2 sensor extension connectors with zip ties. I thought the aluminum could help protect the plastic connector. Any advice?
DanielS172
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Re: Roadstersport Midpipe Installation NC, ND, Fiat 124

Post by DanielS172 »

Hey Brian, I wanted to post a review of sorts for the Helmholtz mid-pipe I just bought and installed for my 2006 Miata. First off, thanks for the super fast shipping. Pretty sure I received it the same week I placed the order.

Install went smoothly, and the parts fit perfectly. I was concerned that the larger diameter mid-pipe would be too big and would bang things underneath the car when driving along (which I've experienced with other cars I've owned). Gladly this was not the case. Although at one point during the install I wiggled the whole exhaust assembly and heard a metal tapping sound, and couldn't figure out where it was coming from to save my life... Come to find out it was the safety pin on one of my jack stands :roll:

The sound is spectacular. Before this my only other "power" mod was a Flyin' Miata muffler which sounded great with the top down, but with my hardtop it droned and resonated badly at certain RPMs. The Helmholtz mid-pipe completely cut that out. It is a little louder, and now it crackles and burbles on decel sometimes, but there is 0 drone now. I couldn't be happier!
2014 Club | OEM hardtop | GWR HH mid, FM muffler | ZetaCRD | Wilwood LBBK | Blackbird Fabworx GT3 roll bar | TRMotorsports FF10s
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