Roadstersport Midpipe Installation

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.

Excellent All Around!!

Postby BenjaminA018 » Sat Nov 21, 2015 5:31 pm

Excellent product all around! I installed this along with the Max Power header (which is also dynamite quality) and noticed the effects of free-flow almost immediately! Car is VERY rev happy now. I bought 3lbs lighter flywheel a few months ago and didnt really notice much difference, but now that the engine can breathe, it defintiely revs quickly and smoothly now! LOVE IT!

I already had a Mazdaspeed SS muffler on the car, but over the years it's gotten increasingly louder. With this header-midpipe combo, my car is CRAZY loud on accel. About the same noise level at idle, and I dont notice much drone but man is it LOUUUD. I sound like a 16 yr old's ricer dream car now, which I'm not real pleased about... Would the Q-Sport muffler reduce this for me? Your site says the Header-Midpipe-QSport combo is only about 25% louder than stock, so I'm thinking adding the muffler would return me to "grown up" sounding exhaust???

Also I'm guessing, despite being stainless steel and still looking quite attractive, that maybe my MS muffler is done "muffling" the sounds? Can that be "cleaned out" somehow, or is the muffler's useful lifespan just over now? What kind of mileage is the Q-Sport muffler likely to get with the rest of your hi-flow system?

Thanks Brian! Keep the amazing products and innovations coming!
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby Brian » Fri Dec 04, 2015 8:15 pm

ND Midpipe install note for AUTOMATIC owners:

ND with Automatic transmission fitment notes for the RoadsterSport midpipe and muffler install.

Much like the NC, there is a little bit of trimming to be done with the auto for the midpipe to clear. In this case, it is just one small tab on a heat shield on the transmission. Here you can see the midpipe almost contacting that shield at one point:

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View of that shield with the midpipe out of the way, and the spot where they contact circled in red:

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That shield unbolts from the transmission and this flap gets cut off:

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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby strathound » Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:44 pm

I just ordered this mid pipe along with the Max Power header and SuperQ exhaust. Is there a video or document that gives the instructions on how to properly relocate the O2 sensors? I read in this thread that they need to be placed a certain way to minimize the chance of throwing a code. Could someone provide the details on how to do this properly. I'd like to give those instructions to my shop to make sure it's done right.

Love the products. Thanks.

Michael
MX5 #98
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby Brian » Thu Mar 03, 2016 12:29 pm

It would be pretty near impossible to get wrong. The plugs on the extension cords are not the same, they are unique to each of the sensors. Thus, the front sensor only gets extended something like 17 inches, which is enough to reach first hole in the midpipe and NOT far enough to reach the back hole. The rear sensor gets extended more than double that 17 inches so it can reach the rear hole in the midpipe. Thus, the O2 sensor order really cannot be screwed up.
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installationon the automatic

Postby Woo » Thu Mar 03, 2016 1:23 pm

If installing the midpipe on the automatic I suggest a trial fit before chopping the piece off that bracket on the side of the transmission.

I chopped the piece off then fitted the midpipe (catted) and found that there was lots of clearance, and the chopping was unnecessary. No harm done, I guess, just carried the gram-strategy a bit further.

Have no idea why. Variations in the midpipe??
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby dmicah » Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:56 am

3 Years later, I have upgraded my NC to the Helmholz version of this midpipe. Of course I like the new sound way better. Brian has cautioned that the new midpipe is louder on the good stuff, and it is, maybe a tad. But the boom and drone are nicely deleted.

2 notes:

1. If you're upgrading like me, you might have bracing on the bottom of the car. I have the ILM Butterfly, X, and Front braces. If you remove a GWR midpipe, it has the slip joint in the middle, and I found that I didn't have to remove my butterfly or front braces -- just the X brace. I was able to disassemble the old pipe and reassemble the new pipe through the remaining braces. That was good, because I've had some problems seating the butterfly and didn't want to remove it.

2. Brian: I realize that I don't get your post on the header studs. Mine looked like either of these when I pulled them:

Image
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But I had no problem reinserting and bolting them to the header exit. Am I looking at a disaster in the future?

Finally, if anyone lives near Seattle and wants an original GWR pipe, I have one. Could be nice for those with turbos etc. that don't need Helmholz. Come by with a bottle of Rye or Bourbon and it's yours.
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby Brian » Mon Apr 18, 2016 11:25 am

Yep, those are stock header studs and nuts, often can't get the nuts separated but re-use like that is fine.
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby XiaoranC684 » Mon May 02, 2016 4:37 pm

GutBomb wrote:I installed this and the super q muffler on my otherwise stock 2013 5MT Sport last week and love the sound, so thanks so much for making it. I did have a few install issues and since I can't seem to find "official" installation instructions (unless this thread is official) I have a couple of questions.

1.) Is this thread the official installation instructions?
1a.) If not, where are the official instructions :)

2.) One of the header studs came out with the nut, the other one stayed in and I was able to remove just the nut. Right now, I acquired a simple bolt that I am using in conjunction with a washer and the existing spring holding in that side. I torqued it to the same spec that the stud/spring/nut combo is supposed to be torqued down to, but since this is different than the stud/spring/nut combo should the torque specs still be the same? This is just temporary anyway as I've ordered the proper stud and nut and they should be here soon.

3.) Gaskets! I don't have a question about the midpipe to muffler gasket, that's all set. The midpipe to header connection though I'm less clear on. Was I supposed to reuse the factory gasket (it looks like braided metal)

Image

Or was I supposed to go without a gasket. In all of the installation threads on this and other forums I haven't seen anything about gaskets for this connection.

In my haste to install, and the lack of any mention of gaskets for this connection anywhere, I don't actually know if I reused the factory gasket or not. I've checked the end of the factory midpipe and there's no gasket stuck to it, so I'm assuming it's still on the stock header, which is now connected to the RS midpipe. I'll be checking that to be sure when I put the proper stud/nut/spring on after it arrives.

4.) I've done about 100 miles so far on the midpipe/super q muffler combo and at first it sounded very bassy on decel but that's decreased a little bit and has been replaced by an awesome rumble/burble sound. This is the sound I was hoping for, but I'm neurotic so I'm looking for validation that this should be the proper evolution of the sound as the exhaust breaks in, rather than it being evidence of a leak or other problem.

5.) When I first did the install the protruding part of the slip joint clamp was facing downwards and was making contact with the X-brace as I drove and creating a very annoying rattle. I got back under the car after the test drive and moved it so the protruding part is facing the left side of the car instead of the ground. The rattle is 99% gone, however when going over larger bumps I do hear contact being made under the car that sounds exactly the same as that X-brace contact before. I've tried moving the pipe and muffler around on all of the bushings but I can't find a position where this doesn't occasionally happen over bumps. Do you have any advice? I thought about maybe putting a large hose clamp around the bushing that holds the midpipe in order to force it to raise up a bit, but I don't know if that would reduce the amount of flex needed while driving. Any ideas?

6.) Finally, today while driving to work at about the 30 minute mark of mostly slow traffic I finally hit clear road (as I was about to enter my office's parking lot). I was in 2nd gear and it felt like I was only getting half of the power I should. Like, it felt like I was trying to accelerate from low speed in 4th gear but was definitely in 2nd. If I had a leak from the header to the midpipe because of a possibly missing gasket and/or possible leak because of the non-standard bold/spring instead of stud/spring/nut could that cause such a dramatic loss in power? The engine didn't sound any different than it usually does so I don't think I lost a cylinder. I also drove later in the day and drove the exact same stretch of road and it felt normal. Do you think it could be related or could be something else?

Sorry for the long-winded and question filled first post but hopefully if someone comes along in the future with the same questions they can be helped by this too.


I didn't see any gaskets after I removed the stock mid pipe from the stock header on my NC 2013. Would that be an issue in the future if I just went ahead without the gaskets?
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby Brian » Mon May 02, 2016 5:23 pm

I doubt the gaskets got left out, you would know IMMEDIATELY BECAUSE IT WOULD BE LOUD, REALLY LOUD.
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Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation

Postby XiaoranC684 » Tue May 03, 2016 9:55 pm

Haha, the mid pipe sounds really good with the super sport Q exhausts, it's quieter but also more enjoyable, when top up, the drone sound is completely gone, can't wait to get the header next year =)

Good job Brain.
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