Mazda Talk Forums

Thanks for the info Brian. Should I shorten the shock body to achieve the 13.25" and leave the preload where it is? Then play with everything from that point forward?

Thanks
David

That's about it. Release preload first...then just spin entire shock down into the bottom coupler after release of the lock ring against that coupler. Lower about half an inch into that coupler. Then lock the lock ring, reset the spring preload.

Perfect explanation. Thanks Brian.

Question: Should I be running stiffer springs for more serious competition? What rate?

I'm running Dunlop 255's all around and at 13.25" the fronts rub the fenders when autocrossing.
Just raised it to 13.5", did 1 event and seems fine.

I was at the Packwood National event in Washington and got my but kicked on the first day but gained a few spots on the second. Quit the learning experience!
Being used to consistent top 3 finishes on local smaller parking lot courses did not prepare me for the wide open and fast flowing courses in Packwood. Running up against some very experienced drivers and well prepared STR cars (non of which were hard tops which I believe are 125-150lbs lighter(?)) made it a challenge and a learning experience.

Guys have turned top results on the standard setup so it hard to say you 'need' higher rates. As I tell folks all the time, it is also very important to tune the car to the surface you run most. If local surface smooth you can go higher, but if local surface rough (like here in San Diego) then higher can mean less speed as the car skitters around on the rough surface.

I will save my money. Thanks Brian!

Do you know the actual weight difference between an NC hard top and soft top convertible equally equipped?
How much of a difference do you think it makes on a 60 sec run?

About 40 lbs. I think
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.ph ... rht+weight

I am a newbie at this so tell me if I am off but the adjusters on front coilovers do not fit under the stock shock tower brace. I do not see anyway to make them fit. 07 Grand touring w/appearance and handling pkg. Do I try to drill a hole in the top cup? A small hole and use the extra adjuster knob with the extended shaft or a bigger hole to fit the standard adjuster plus nut through the top? Or did I miss something obvious???? When I try to place the brace on the studs it is sitting on the top of the adjuster right about where the corner of the bar hits the cup.

Hi Larry

We just take a hole saw to that and make a hole.....it won't impact performance a bit. Finish up with a shot of rattle can black gloss and it looks factory!

OR...you upgrade to one of our nice aftermarket choices that already have that top bit open.



Brian

Brian I got the backs on, maybe took 2 hours, but I did it by puttingthe shock onto lower mount and jack the whole assembly up and attached the top stuff and didn't remove the top hat at all.....