Header Installation

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.
Post Reply
JeffreyH059
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:13 am
Location: Charlotte, NC

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by JeffreyH059 »

GWR Header comes this week! Can't wait! :D

I wanted to say thanks in advance for all the DIY postings on this. I'm sure your advice/tips will save some time and plenty of headaches.
Current
'07 MX-5 Sport, GWR Header, Midpipe, RSII Duals
'06 Civic, K&N Intake, Eibach Springs/Sways, Tokico Shocks, etc

[Sold]
'99 Miata Base, K&N Intake, Mazdaspeed Catback
'96 SC300
'98 Accord, I/E, Direct Port NOS, MSD Ign, Coilovers, etc
'95 MX-6
JeffreyH059
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:13 am
Location: Charlotte, NC

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by JeffreyH059 »

GWR Header went in with no real issues. Fitment was perfect. Overall weld quality was good. One weld had me slightly concerned, but only time will tell. I don't have other headers to compare it to so I can't say if it is better or worse than others.

Install took me about 11 hours by my lonesome. If I had to do it again, I'm sure I could do it in 5 or less. I was slow and methodical and took my time working on it over the weekend. Due to the various bolts in tight spaces, I ended up using a lot of the tools in the toolbox. Having offset wrenches, a creeper, and good sockets and extensions are a must. For the manifold removal/header installation I removed two of the three bolts from the alternator and tilted it forward (thanks to your posts). Very easy to take out/put in with the alternator tilted forward, and the belt work was simple. :)

Performance gains are appreciable, and seem to be slightly increasing as the computer learns the new setup. Top end RPM's are noticably freer and throttle response is better. Prior to the header, I had installed the GWR Midpipe and RSII Exhaust. With the header, it is definitely a new animal w/ regards to noise. The exhaust when cruising/feathering the gas is still pretty quiet, near stock. When you get on the gas pedal, it is a different story. I can't wait to see what it sounds like in a month after the new header tubes gets broken in. No CEL's thus far (important here in North Carolina). :D

Would I do it again? What a silly question... of course!

So my wife drove the Miata today and called me up. "I love this car! We're never getting rid of it! This is my car, remember!" (After about a week of ownership, I was driving the Miata everyday and she was driving the Civic.) Thankfully, I wear the pants and make the money in our household.

Glad to have her onboard. Not sure if I trust her with a [future] supercharger... lol. :shock:

Maybe I'll just go Intake/Tune and be done with the engine... idk. Either way, 2013 will be my year for upgrading the suspension. Can't wait to do my next mods.
Current
'07 MX-5 Sport, GWR Header, Midpipe, RSII Duals
'06 Civic, K&N Intake, Eibach Springs/Sways, Tokico Shocks, etc

[Sold]
'99 Miata Base, K&N Intake, Mazdaspeed Catback
'96 SC300
'98 Accord, I/E, Direct Port NOS, MSD Ign, Coilovers, etc
'95 MX-6
NC'Adam
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2012 5:35 pm

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by NC'Adam »

I installed the PPE long tube header on my '07 this weekend using the instructions from this thread as a guide. Only major deviations being that the alternator had to come out completely and I had to remove the strut brace.

I cant seem to get the new header to seal to the engine block. It sounds fine at idle in the driveway and I can't detect any leaks under those conditions, but as soon as i take it for a drive i get this horrible raspy buzzing noise along with a kind of 'psshhhhht' noise that almost sound like a turbo blowoff whenever coasting/engine braking. It sounds like exhaust escaping past the gasket and making the gasket vibrate. And when I stop and open the hood it smells like exhaust in the engine bay. I started out using Brian's suggested 25 ft-lbs on the header nuts but got the noise. I consulted my shop manual which said 35-47 ft-lbs for the exhaust header nuts. So i tightened everything to 35 still got the noise. Tightened it to 47, no change.

So what gives? Should I replace the gasket?
Brian
Site Admin
Posts: 11307
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA
Contact:

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by Brian »

Did you torque the bolts starting from MIDDLE and working your way outward to the sides? If not, start over and try about 20 ft/lbs on center nuts and then work your way out and then from center again go to full torque.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
NC'Adam
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2012 5:35 pm

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by NC'Adam »

Brian wrote:Did you torque the bolts starting from MIDDLE and working your way outward to the sides? If not, start over and try about 20 ft/lbs on center nuts and then work your way out and then from center again go to full torque.
Turns out it wasn't leaking at the block. It was the clamps in the mid-pipe on either side of the pre-silencer. I guess working in a small garage messes with your perception of where a sound is coming from. I took it to the local Meineke, and they put some "QuikSteel" sealant on them and it seems to be working so far.
wbtonner
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:07 pm

Re: NC Header Installation "Gotcha" for RHD cars

Post by wbtonner »

Hi Brian

I have just recently fitted my GWR stainless headers to the midpipe and Roadster II I had previously installed into my 06 PHRT.

I had one major problem that occurred during the install, albeit not a issue with the GWR components, that I thought needs to be highlighted.

I read through your install instructions and the instructions you link to from MX5miata.net and also the hint from charlie brown on Wed May 13, 2009 12:30 pm about disconnecting the uni joint on the steering column to give more space to remove the old headers on RHD cars.

The removal/install took me about 6 hours in total over 2 days with only a small amount of angst and swearing and after starting the car I had a large grin on my face. I was impressed with the way the car now sounded and revved (I also already had previously installed a AEM CAI) and the overall look was bloody beautiful.

Now to the problem:

After the initial happiness and grinning like a Cheshire cat, I noticed that the horn, stereo & cruise controls on the steering wheel were not working and that the ABS dash light was flashing. After investigation I determined that the clockspring between the steering wheel and the column was the culprit. This was really doing my head in as I had not disconnected anything in that area. After discussions with a Mazda mechanic he confirmed my diagnosis and I ordered a new clockspring at $130 (bugger). After installing the new clockspring all is now good again and I am back to grinning.

What caused this is that the 2 bolts that needed to be undone to disconnect the bottom of the steering column from the rack were not accessible when the steering was facing straight ahead. So I turned the steering wheel approx 90 deg to the right to access the bolts and disconnected the steering column. But during the subsequent removal/install activity I had inadvertently turned the steering without thinking that this could cause a problem, remember that all that was disconnected was the uni joint at the bottom. So it appears that if you do this the clockspring unwinds and breaks and hence the ABS and controls problems.

So, as such, I thought I would highlight this to you as a service so that others don't fall for this. If I had to help someone install these into a RHD car again I would make sure that they either clamped the steering wheel in place or remove the steering wheel and the clockspring to ensure it doesn't get damaged.

Cheers Woody
Brian
Site Admin
Posts: 11307
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA
Contact:

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by Brian »

Thanks Woody, great info for RHD owners.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Oz
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:45 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by Oz »

It's tight but if you remove the alternator instead of just pivoting it on RHD models, you can install without pulling the steering shaft.
Rob Young
Black 2005 NCLE GWR Exh, Cosworth, Mototune, Ohlins, PF01
Va MX5
Posts: 37
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:36 am
Location: Sumerduck, Va

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by Va MX5 »

Folks,
Did the GWR header & complete GWR exhaust install on Saturday afternoon on a two post lift, with a cooler of beer. Using the recommended procedures from this thread and the occasional help of a friend, the time to complete was about 5 hours total. I had to remove 3 sections of IL Motorsports chassis braces to open up the bottom of the car for removal of the stock pipe and install of the GWR mid pipe, but otherwise this thread covers all the things encountered and the options of dealing with them (removal was from the top). Pull the oxygen sensors (reused), the studs (reused) out of the stock header and the heat shields from the Cat portion thereon, before removal / extraction of the stock unit from the car (to get as much clearance room as possible). The product is high quality, sound is pleasant with out being overly loud, lighter and looks great (Appearance Package Application). While I don't currently have any other motor related mods in place, the products were chosen to accommodate forced induction at some point ( Brian, get on the stick and get us something good, soon). Still, the car feels more responsive and seems to have more torque above 3500 rpm and pulls cleanly from there up to redline. No OBD trouble codes have occurred and no pipe clearance problems / contact noise experianced. The most important step is running the oxygen sensor leads to avoid any contact with the exhaust system, but with the supplied extension leads this was easy to work through. Looking forward to testing at the track soon!
This one is a winner. :D
Regards to all.
Pat- Va MX5
2012 MX5 PRHT GT
Brian
Site Admin
Posts: 11307
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA
Contact:

Re: NC Header Installation

Post by Brian »

NOTES on install for AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.

We have known for years that the RoadsterSport Max Power header fits the cars with automatic transmission, though it is tight to the larger housing of the automatic it does clear. However, we see so few automatics for modification that we had never had opportunity to install both the header and larger diameter RoadsterSport midpipe until this past week. At least on the newest 2013 club we found the midpipe gets too close to a bolt on panel that is on the transmission. As shown in the photos below, we removed the panel and trimmed off a piece of it that is not serving any function anyway. This gave us clearance. Note some customers also report need to trim the end off the hanger of the midpipe so it won't make 'tap-tap' noise in aggressive driving against the bigger housing of the auto trans.

FOR those with AUTOMATIC getting our STREET HEADER also note issue with cooling line re-route we cover HERE
Attachments
RoadsterSport-Automatic-panel-trim.JPG
RoadsterSport-Automatic-panel-trim.JPG (88.14 KiB) Viewed 20100 times
RoadsterSport-Automatic-panel.JPG
RoadsterSport-Automatic-panel.JPG (116.25 KiB) Viewed 20100 times
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Post Reply