Header Installation

[wbtonner]

Hi Brian

I have just recently fitted my GWR stainless headers to the midpipe and Roadster II I had previously installed into my 06 PHRT.

I had one major problem that occurred during the install, albeit not a issue with the GWR components, that I thought needs to be highlighted.

I read through your install instructions and the instructions you link to from MX5miata.net and also the hint from charlie brown on Wed May 13, 2009 12:30 pm about disconnecting the uni joint on the steering column to give more space to remove the old headers on RHD cars.

The removal/install took me about 6 hours in total over 2 days with only a small amount of angst and swearing and after starting the car I had a large grin on my face. I was impressed with the way the car now sounded and revved (I also already had previously installed a AEM CAI) and the overall look was bloody beautiful.

Now to the problem:

After the initial happiness and grinning like a Cheshire cat, I noticed that the horn, stereo & cruise controls on the steering wheel were not working and that the ABS dash light was flashing. After investigation I determined that the clockspring between the steering wheel and the column was the culprit. This was really doing my head in as I had not disconnected anything in that area. After discussions with a Mazda mechanic he confirmed my diagnosis and I ordered a new clockspring at $130 (bugger). After installing the new clockspring all is now good again and I am back to grinning.

What caused this is that the 2 bolts that needed to be undone to disconnect the bottom of the steering column from the rack were not accessible when the steering was facing straight ahead. So I turned the steering wheel approx 90 deg to the right to access the bolts and disconnected the steering column. But during the subsequent removal/install activity I had inadvertently turned the steering without thinking that this could cause a problem, remember that all that was disconnected was the uni joint at the bottom. So it appears that if you do this the clockspring unwinds and breaks and hence the ABS and controls problems.

So, as such, I thought I would highlight this to you as a service so that others don't fall for this. If I had to help someone install these into a RHD car again I would make sure that they either clamped the steering wheel in place or remove the steering wheel and the clockspring to ensure it doesn't get damaged.

Cheers Woody

[Brian]

Thanks Woody, great info for RHD owners.

[Oz]

It's tight but if you remove the alternator instead of just pivoting it on RHD models, you can install without pulling the steering shaft.

[Va MX5]

Folks,
Did the GWR header & complete GWR exhaust install on Saturday afternoon on a two post lift, with a cooler of beer. Using the recommended procedures from this thread and the occasional help of a friend, the time to complete was about 5 hours total. I had to remove 3 sections of IL Motorsports chassis braces to open up the bottom of the car for removal of the stock pipe and install of the GWR mid pipe, but otherwise this thread covers all the things encountered and the options of dealing with them (removal was from the top). Pull the oxygen sensors (reused), the studs (reused) out of the stock header and the heat shields from the Cat portion thereon, before removal / extraction of the stock unit from the car (to get as much clearance room as possible). The product is high quality, sound is pleasant with out being overly loud, lighter and looks great (Appearance Package Application). While I don't currently have any other motor related mods in place, the products were chosen to accommodate forced induction at some point ( Brian, get on the stick and get us something good, soon). Still, the car feels more responsive and seems to have more torque above 3500 rpm and pulls cleanly from there up to redline. No OBD trouble codes have occurred and no pipe clearance problems / contact noise experianced. The most important step is running the oxygen sensor leads to avoid any contact with the exhaust system, but with the supplied extension leads this was easy to work through. Looking forward to testing at the track soon!
This one is a winner.
Regards to all.

[Brian]

NOTES on install for AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.

We have known for years that the RoadsterSport Max Power header fits the cars with automatic transmission, though it is tight to the larger housing of the automatic it does clear. However, we see so few automatics for modification that we had never had opportunity to install both the header and larger diameter RoadsterSport midpipe until this past week. At least on the newest 2013 club we found the midpipe gets too close to a bolt on panel that is on the transmission. As shown in the photos below, we removed the panel and trimmed off a piece of it that is not serving any function anyway. This gave us clearance. Note some customers also report need to trim the end off the hanger of the midpipe so it won't make 'tap-tap' noise in aggressive driving against the bigger housing of the auto trans.

FOR those with AUTOMATIC getting our STREET HEADER also note issue with cooling line re-route we cover HERE

[JT12]

Found that exact issue when doing the same install on our 2012 PRHT automatic a couple months ago. Difference being that it wasn't apparent until everything was bolted up and I was hitting along the length of the mid-pipe with my hand to see if anything rattled. So I proved its possible to remove/replace it after the mid is installed but a FAR better idea to just make this a standard part of prepping an NC automatic for the mid-pipe ahead of time. The metal is soft so either trimming or grinding off that lower lip is quick.

[GaryO935]

Finally installed my ceramic coated max power header and Q midpipe onto the existing Super Q. Not too hard....required a lot of patience and trying different tools. It sounds great....quite a sound. The studs came out of the OEM header with the nuts and no amount of effort including heat will free them. In the meantime I went to Lowes and found some M10 X 1.25 X 75 bolts and washers. They are a bit long so had to use oversize nuts as spacers under the bolts heads. New studs and nuts on order at the dealer. Brian cautioned about taking care that the O2 sensor connectors don't come in contact with the hot exhaust. I reused the wire cable holders from the OEM header and attached one to an oil pan bolt and another to the front cross brace, using a 10mm bolt from the OEM heat shield to a conveniently empty threaded hole in the brace. The rear O2 extension was a bit long so I put a loop in it and tried taping it to the under side heat shield with heater duct tape.. BIG MISTAKE.. it came loose after about an hour of driving...luckily I caught it before it did more than melt the side of the connector a bit. Then someone suggested running the rear extension cable behind the tunnel heatshield, which easily comes loose after removing a couple of snap fasteners. I also had to release the tension on the belt and undo the alternator and allow it to move forward and down. Now...I need to meet up with Jay at TDR and get an ECU tune. I'm working on getting enough locals interested for Jay to make the trip to Ocala area.

Update Dec 8, 2013. Did get together with Jay from TDR and after an additional race tune update dynoed at 155RWHP. I should have done a 4th run with the glass-packed baffles to see what drop they would have...didn't think of it in time. The baffles do really mellow out the exhaust note if you want to tone things down between speed runs. I also ordered and installed OEM header flange studs and nuts to replace the bolts .

[See23]

At the risk of getting slammed...
I finished the install of the PPE header mid pipe and Q exhaust on my 3013 MX5. It took me a day.
I am mechanically inclined, have all the tools and can work on anything but this was my first time in, under and around a Mazda so excuse me but...
-The forum is helpful for the header install but what covers the mid pipe and exhaust?
-There were no instructions with the parts.
-The bolts for the header to pipe with cat were to long. Why? Did I screw up?? I ended up using bolts an inch shorter and the stock springs with extra washers.
-I had to figure out the hanger set up for myself (not a big issue)
I appreciate that a thousand guys may have done this before without a problem but this was my first so I could have used easier access to info without having to search the forum or review product descriptions.

[Brian]

This is an install thread about the RoadsterSport headers in particular, though it may be helpful for the PPE Long Tube installs it does not pretend to cover the PPE header install (likewise this thread does not cover install of the Racing Beat header, or Tomei headers, or any header besides the RoadsterSport brand). There are other threads in this same section of this forum for both RoadsterSport muffler installs....and RoadsterSport midpipe installs. I do see a number of helpful customer posts on PPE install questions....in the PPE Long Tube Thread here. There might be some additional install threads on the PPE Long Tube in Miata.net forum NC sections.

Glad to hear you have overcome the challenge. For those finding this later, he has also proven that my notes in the product description for the PPE Long Tube were not a joke: "INSTALLATION NOTES: This is small volume item, hand made in batches of just 10 units at a time and fitment varies a bit unit to unit. Therefore, expect a little fiddle factor with the install as NORMAL with this choice (if you want the precision that comes with a mass produced item see our RoadsterSport Max Power combo that bolts up perfect every time). You want our O2 extension cables below to make the install as plug and play as possible."

[See23]

I am learning how things work with Good-win Racing and, in the end, the support is great and I got the job done despite the(my) challenges.
Putting it together and then reading instructions never seems to work out even if it's just a barbecue.
The install for STR class, so far, included the following:
-AEM intake
-PPE long tube header with extension cables (a must have!) and mid pipe with Q exhaust
-EcuTek reflash - Mike at Moto East got the new file to me in a day
Everything is done and working great! Mid range power and torque gains are impressive and worth the cost and effort.
Sounds bad ass without being obnoxious. Perfect for a daily driver and track car.
Looking forward to doing the sway bar coil overs, tires and wheels in the new year for the 2014 autocross season.
Thanks for all your help and patience Brian!