Header Installation

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.

Re: NC Header Installation

Postby Brian » Fri May 06, 2016 8:30 am

The first sensor is a wideband...it should be always and constantly doing small tune adjustments, and that is what we usually see here. But when the sensors get older, or if they get dropped, or if the wires into them get pinched over at hard angle, then perhaps the car will not dial in as it should. It must be noted that even when car tunes well, a Tuner like Motoeast Mike can add even more timing if you run more octane with result of more gains.
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Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Sat Jul 02, 2016 7:25 am

ND Header Factory Manual Install.
HeaderNDInstall.jpg



Tips:

1. Remove shock tower brace if you have one installed.
2. Relax the cooling line that runs above header area by removing bolt that holds it toward passenger side fender, and loosen the other bolt that holds it near front cross member. Stock header can then be unbolted per diagram above and lifted straight up.

boltscoolant.jpg


LONGTUBE HEADER TIPS

INSTALLATION NOTES: Given the big size of the resonator we suggest those actually racing give extra support by swapping the factory rubber hanger for the midpipe with one of the thickest rubber hangers from the rear. Two people doing the install makes it much easier, having a lift makes it much easier, thus professional install suggested.

Start with removal of shock tower brace, disconnect passenger side motor mount, disconnect two bolts holding coolant lines to chassis above header (no need to drain coolant).

Remove factory header and studs holding the header to motor.

To install the longtube you will likely find it much easier if you jack up the motor to give yourself more clearance on the passenger side of the motor. Before jacking up the motor start the process of the longtube going into the car, one person from above can lower header to one person below the car. Once it is down as far it will go you will likely find you need to jack up the motor for it to drop the rest of the way into position. Same torque specs as factory header per factory service manual page above. Currently fitment is MANUAL TRANS and LHD only, no promise is made of ever fitting RHD or automatic but if we get the chance to check fitment we will update this sentence accordingly.

With some force you will discover that you can change the angle of the flex joint in the midpipe, once your muffler of choice is bolted up make sure you have at least half inch clearance between muffler tip and plastic bumper cutout, and as needed you can yank down on the exhaust tip as your other arm pushes up on midpipe exit flange and you will feel the flex joint change angles until you get the necessary clearance.

Note we have found there is risk with our RACE muffler of melting bumper cut-out if not careful, only our Race muffler has tip that is not rolled, which means it gets really hot. All our other mufflers with rolled tips do not share that risk. You will find the setup takes both factory O2 sensors, one up front just like factory setup and second sensor after converter just like in factory setup (the only difference is sensors are moving downstream a little because first converter is downstream).
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Re: Header Installation

Postby JeffR063 » Sat Jul 16, 2016 6:05 pm

Not sure if this is too old of a thread, but... Attempted the header removal today. Say what you want about my skills, but this thing's a bear. I can't get the old header out. I do have one of the studs on the flange (for the bolt/spring thingy) that seems to be getting in the way, but the install thread doesn't seem to mention removal as a requirement. I'm not reusing them right? Can I cut it off?

The more vexing problem is the dang alternator. I loosened up the 2 bottom bolts and the top one, but I don't get what that's supposed to do. They are positioned toward the side of the car, and I need the blasted thing to move forward. In fact, the serpentine belt doesn't let it move out to the side anyway, so I'm not clear on what loosening those bolts are supposed to do. Yes, it moves a tiny bit forward, but not nearly enough for clearance.

Suggestions for a someone with two left hands? This is worrying me because it's Saturday night, and I need to drive it to work Monday!
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Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Sun Jul 17, 2016 4:21 am

Normally I pull two bolts for alternator and tilt it forward, but you can also just remove the altnerator entirely and it will open a bigger space, make the job easier.
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Re: Header Installation

Postby JeffR063 » Sun Jul 17, 2016 3:36 pm

Thanks Brian, I get it now. I misunderstood backing out without removing the alternator bolts as meaning just loosen but not backing them all the way out from the threads.

To any other knucklehead like me: the two alternator bolts that are mentioned in the original install post need to be pulled back out to clear the threads to allow the alternator to be pulled forward by the serpentine belt to give clearance.

On to removing the tranny as I'm also putting in the lightened flywheel at the same time. I hope this is more straightforward!

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Re: Header Installation

Postby SinY308 » Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:13 pm

Hey folks,

Just finished torquing down all of the flanges after installing the RS catted headers...
Only hiccup I'm running into is I have a 1/4 in. gap evenly around the connection at the header/factory midpipe...pretty much the donut gasket is exposed...
I've sprayed it with soapy water when the car idles with no noticeable leaks, but haven't had a chance to check at higher rpms... I'm trying to see if this is "normal." If not, I suppose I'll be dropping some of the cross braces and midpipe to make the proper adjustments...

Thanks in advance!!! :?
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Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:48 pm

Yes...normal. It is a ball/socket union designed to move as the engine rocks back and forth. Without the gap it would not swivel, the springs keep tension and seal.
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Re: Header Installation

Postby SinY308 » Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:55 pm

Brian wrote:Yes...normal. It is a ball/socket union designed to move as the engine rocks back and forth. Without the gap it would not swivel.


ahha thanks. sorry for the hassle but thanks for the insight! :o :oops:
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Re: Header Installation

Postby mx5coup » Fri Jun 02, 2017 10:11 am

Hey Brian:

Question for you, the RoadsterSport Header (ceramic coated), is it supposed to sit really close the back of the alternator? I see there was heat tape included with the header. I had my local shop install the header and they applied the heat tape to the back of the alternator but was wondering if it is supposed to sit so close?

I can take pics if needed. Overall love the added power down low.

Thanks!
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Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Fri Jun 02, 2017 10:44 am

Yep, that's why the tape is included though later testing showed it was not needed. The part it sits close to is the air scoop for the alternator and even without the tape it doesn't get hot enough to be issue because there is so much airflow directed into that space.
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