Roadstersport Midpipe Installation
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
Yes, we see that with all systems...including stock.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
Ok, good. Nothing to worry about. Thanks for the quick reply! ![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
I installed this and the super q muffler on my otherwise stock 2013 5MT Sport last week and love the sound, so thanks so much for making it. I did have a few install issues and since I can't seem to find "official" installation instructions (unless this thread is official) I have a couple of questions.
1.) Is this thread the official installation instructions?
1a.) If not, where are the official instructions![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
2.) One of the header studs came out with the nut, the other one stayed in and I was able to remove just the nut. Right now, I acquired a simple bolt that I am using in conjunction with a washer and the existing spring holding in that side. I torqued it to the same spec that the stud/spring/nut combo is supposed to be torqued down to, but since this is different than the stud/spring/nut combo should the torque specs still be the same? This is just temporary anyway as I've ordered the proper stud and nut and they should be here soon.
3.) Gaskets! I don't have a question about the midpipe to muffler gasket, that's all set. The midpipe to header connection though I'm less clear on. Was I supposed to reuse the factory gasket (it looks like braided metal)
![Image](http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/product_images/c/319/7DAF38DBA5958125FC87EB9123B35DC0__96408_zoom.jpg)
Or was I supposed to go without a gasket. In all of the installation threads on this and other forums I haven't seen anything about gaskets for this connection.
In my haste to install, and the lack of any mention of gaskets for this connection anywhere, I don't actually know if I reused the factory gasket or not. I've checked the end of the factory midpipe and there's no gasket stuck to it, so I'm assuming it's still on the stock header, which is now connected to the RS midpipe. I'll be checking that to be sure when I put the proper stud/nut/spring on after it arrives.
4.) I've done about 100 miles so far on the midpipe/super q muffler combo and at first it sounded very bassy on decel but that's decreased a little bit and has been replaced by an awesome rumble/burble sound. This is the sound I was hoping for, but I'm neurotic so I'm looking for validation that this should be the proper evolution of the sound as the exhaust breaks in, rather than it being evidence of a leak or other problem.
5.) When I first did the install the protruding part of the slip joint clamp was facing downwards and was making contact with the X-brace as I drove and creating a very annoying rattle. I got back under the car after the test drive and moved it so the protruding part is facing the left side of the car instead of the ground. The rattle is 99% gone, however when going over larger bumps I do hear contact being made under the car that sounds exactly the same as that X-brace contact before. I've tried moving the pipe and muffler around on all of the bushings but I can't find a position where this doesn't occasionally happen over bumps. Do you have any advice? I thought about maybe putting a large hose clamp around the bushing that holds the midpipe in order to force it to raise up a bit, but I don't know if that would reduce the amount of flex needed while driving. Any ideas?
6.) Finally, today while driving to work at about the 30 minute mark of mostly slow traffic I finally hit clear road (as I was about to enter my office's parking lot). I was in 2nd gear and it felt like I was only getting half of the power I should. Like, it felt like I was trying to accelerate from low speed in 4th gear but was definitely in 2nd. If I had a leak from the header to the midpipe because of a possibly missing gasket and/or possible leak because of the non-standard bold/spring instead of stud/spring/nut could that cause such a dramatic loss in power? The engine didn't sound any different than it usually does so I don't think I lost a cylinder. I also drove later in the day and drove the exact same stretch of road and it felt normal. Do you think it could be related or could be something else?
Sorry for the long-winded and question filled first post but hopefully if someone comes along in the future with the same questions they can be helped by this too.
1.) Is this thread the official installation instructions?
1a.) If not, where are the official instructions
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
2.) One of the header studs came out with the nut, the other one stayed in and I was able to remove just the nut. Right now, I acquired a simple bolt that I am using in conjunction with a washer and the existing spring holding in that side. I torqued it to the same spec that the stud/spring/nut combo is supposed to be torqued down to, but since this is different than the stud/spring/nut combo should the torque specs still be the same? This is just temporary anyway as I've ordered the proper stud and nut and they should be here soon.
3.) Gaskets! I don't have a question about the midpipe to muffler gasket, that's all set. The midpipe to header connection though I'm less clear on. Was I supposed to reuse the factory gasket (it looks like braided metal)
![Image](http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/product_images/c/319/7DAF38DBA5958125FC87EB9123B35DC0__96408_zoom.jpg)
Or was I supposed to go without a gasket. In all of the installation threads on this and other forums I haven't seen anything about gaskets for this connection.
In my haste to install, and the lack of any mention of gaskets for this connection anywhere, I don't actually know if I reused the factory gasket or not. I've checked the end of the factory midpipe and there's no gasket stuck to it, so I'm assuming it's still on the stock header, which is now connected to the RS midpipe. I'll be checking that to be sure when I put the proper stud/nut/spring on after it arrives.
4.) I've done about 100 miles so far on the midpipe/super q muffler combo and at first it sounded very bassy on decel but that's decreased a little bit and has been replaced by an awesome rumble/burble sound. This is the sound I was hoping for, but I'm neurotic so I'm looking for validation that this should be the proper evolution of the sound as the exhaust breaks in, rather than it being evidence of a leak or other problem.
5.) When I first did the install the protruding part of the slip joint clamp was facing downwards and was making contact with the X-brace as I drove and creating a very annoying rattle. I got back under the car after the test drive and moved it so the protruding part is facing the left side of the car instead of the ground. The rattle is 99% gone, however when going over larger bumps I do hear contact being made under the car that sounds exactly the same as that X-brace contact before. I've tried moving the pipe and muffler around on all of the bushings but I can't find a position where this doesn't occasionally happen over bumps. Do you have any advice? I thought about maybe putting a large hose clamp around the bushing that holds the midpipe in order to force it to raise up a bit, but I don't know if that would reduce the amount of flex needed while driving. Any ideas?
6.) Finally, today while driving to work at about the 30 minute mark of mostly slow traffic I finally hit clear road (as I was about to enter my office's parking lot). I was in 2nd gear and it felt like I was only getting half of the power I should. Like, it felt like I was trying to accelerate from low speed in 4th gear but was definitely in 2nd. If I had a leak from the header to the midpipe because of a possibly missing gasket and/or possible leak because of the non-standard bold/spring instead of stud/spring/nut could that cause such a dramatic loss in power? The engine didn't sound any different than it usually does so I don't think I lost a cylinder. I also drove later in the day and drove the exact same stretch of road and it felt normal. Do you think it could be related or could be something else?
Sorry for the long-winded and question filled first post but hopefully if someone comes along in the future with the same questions they can be helped by this too.
Last edited by GutBomb on Thu Aug 06, 2015 6:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
Sorry I missed this before, been super busy here.
Yes, muffler will break in and evolve in sound as it gets deposits on inner surfaces.
Sprung connection doesn't require factory stud, a long bolt just fine if you still have the spring in there.
I am confused how install of the Q muffler somehow involved header gasket but YES..you must have that gasket for header outlet to midpipe and it is covered in depth with picture in the header install instructions. I have to imagine you did have it on the header when you put it back together because otherwise no seal there would result in MASSIVE sound levels and rattle.
As for sudden power loss, if you did install header too and moved O2 sensors then I am concerned about shorting of the extension wires for the O2 sensors, give those a close look and make sure you didn't melt and short a connector.
Yes, muffler will break in and evolve in sound as it gets deposits on inner surfaces.
Sprung connection doesn't require factory stud, a long bolt just fine if you still have the spring in there.
I am confused how install of the Q muffler somehow involved header gasket but YES..you must have that gasket for header outlet to midpipe and it is covered in depth with picture in the header install instructions. I have to imagine you did have it on the header when you put it back together because otherwise no seal there would result in MASSIVE sound levels and rattle.
As for sudden power loss, if you did install header too and moved O2 sensors then I am concerned about shorting of the extension wires for the O2 sensors, give those a close look and make sure you didn't melt and short a connector.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
Thanks for the response!Brian wrote:Sorry I missed this before, been super busy here.
Yes, muffler will break in and evolve in sound as it gets deposits on inner surfaces.
Sprung connection doesn't require factory stud, a long bolt just fine if you still have the spring in there.
I am confused how install of the Q muffler somehow involved header gasket but YES..you must have that gasket for header outlet to midpipe and it is covered in depth with picture in the header install instructions. I have to imagine you did have it on the header when you put it back together because otherwise no seal there would result in MASSIVE sound levels and rattle.
As for sudden power loss, if you did install header too and moved O2 sensors then I am concerned about shorting of the extension wires for the O2 sensors, give those a close look and make sure you didn't melt and short a connector.
I ended up solving all of the issues I had.
2.) I replaced the stud with a factory stud. I'm glad I did because when I pulled out the bolt I used from Lowes it was bent pretty severely.
3.) I did indeed have the gasket in there, no problems. You mentioned being confused why this gasket was involved with a Q muffler. To clarify, I installed the Q muffler and the RS midpipe.
4.) The bass continues to reduce and the burbles continue to remain prominent. Exactly what I want, thanks so much for an awesome series of products.
5.) When I re-did the stud I separated the midpipe pieces and put the clamp back on facing the opposite direction and put everything back together. the bolt area of the clamp is now high enough that it doesn't make contact with the X-brace when the exhaust moves around while driving. The way I had it on before the bolt was in a position I couldn't reach with a wrench unless it was in a position that could potentially make contact with the brace. When I put it back on after turning it around I had plenty of room for a socket to reach the bolt in a position that was high enough where it wouldn't make contact.
6.) I figured out the loss of power and it was something so simple and boneheaded I should have known from the start. It was a hot day and I was maxing my A/C. I still have the stock header so I didn't relocate the sensors.
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Excellent All Around!!
Excellent product all around! I installed this along with the Max Power header (which is also dynamite quality) and noticed the effects of free-flow almost immediately! Car is VERY rev happy now. I bought 3lbs lighter flywheel a few months ago and didnt really notice much difference, but now that the engine can breathe, it defintiely revs quickly and smoothly now! LOVE IT!
I already had a Mazdaspeed SS muffler on the car, but over the years it's gotten increasingly louder. With this header-midpipe combo, my car is CRAZY loud on accel. About the same noise level at idle, and I dont notice much drone but man is it LOUUUD. I sound like a 16 yr old's ricer dream car now, which I'm not real pleased about... Would the Q-Sport muffler reduce this for me? Your site says the Header-Midpipe-QSport combo is only about 25% louder than stock, so I'm thinking adding the muffler would return me to "grown up" sounding exhaust???
Also I'm guessing, despite being stainless steel and still looking quite attractive, that maybe my MS muffler is done "muffling" the sounds? Can that be "cleaned out" somehow, or is the muffler's useful lifespan just over now? What kind of mileage is the Q-Sport muffler likely to get with the rest of your hi-flow system?
Thanks Brian! Keep the amazing products and innovations coming!
I already had a Mazdaspeed SS muffler on the car, but over the years it's gotten increasingly louder. With this header-midpipe combo, my car is CRAZY loud on accel. About the same noise level at idle, and I dont notice much drone but man is it LOUUUD. I sound like a 16 yr old's ricer dream car now, which I'm not real pleased about... Would the Q-Sport muffler reduce this for me? Your site says the Header-Midpipe-QSport combo is only about 25% louder than stock, so I'm thinking adding the muffler would return me to "grown up" sounding exhaust???
Also I'm guessing, despite being stainless steel and still looking quite attractive, that maybe my MS muffler is done "muffling" the sounds? Can that be "cleaned out" somehow, or is the muffler's useful lifespan just over now? What kind of mileage is the Q-Sport muffler likely to get with the rest of your hi-flow system?
Thanks Brian! Keep the amazing products and innovations coming!
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
ND Midpipe install note for AUTOMATIC owners:
ND with Automatic transmission fitment notes for the RoadsterSport midpipe and muffler install.
Much like the NC, there is a little bit of trimming to be done with the auto for the midpipe to clear. In this case, it is just one small tab on a heat shield on the transmission. Here you can see the midpipe almost contacting that shield at one point:
![Image](http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/download/file.php?id=3053&t=1)
View of that shield with the midpipe out of the way, and the spot where they contact circled in red:
![Image](http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/download/file.php?id=3055&t=1)
That shield unbolts from the transmission and this flap gets cut off:
![Image](http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/download/file.php?id=3054&t=1)
ND with Automatic transmission fitment notes for the RoadsterSport midpipe and muffler install.
Much like the NC, there is a little bit of trimming to be done with the auto for the midpipe to clear. In this case, it is just one small tab on a heat shield on the transmission. Here you can see the midpipe almost contacting that shield at one point:
View of that shield with the midpipe out of the way, and the spot where they contact circled in red:
That shield unbolts from the transmission and this flap gets cut off:
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
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- Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:53 pm
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
I just ordered this mid pipe along with the Max Power header and SuperQ exhaust. Is there a video or document that gives the instructions on how to properly relocate the O2 sensors? I read in this thread that they need to be placed a certain way to minimize the chance of throwing a code. Could someone provide the details on how to do this properly. I'd like to give those instructions to my shop to make sure it's done right.
Love the products. Thanks.
Michael
MX5 #98
Love the products. Thanks.
Michael
MX5 #98
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installation
It would be pretty near impossible to get wrong. The plugs on the extension cords are not the same, they are unique to each of the sensors. Thus, the front sensor only gets extended something like 17 inches, which is enough to reach first hole in the midpipe and NOT far enough to reach the back hole. The rear sensor gets extended more than double that 17 inches so it can reach the rear hole in the midpipe. Thus, the O2 sensor order really cannot be screwed up.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Re: Roadstersport midpipe installationon the automatic
If installing the midpipe on the automatic I suggest a trial fit before chopping the piece off that bracket on the side of the transmission.
I chopped the piece off then fitted the midpipe (catted) and found that there was lots of clearance, and the chopping was unnecessary. No harm done, I guess, just carried the gram-strategy a bit further.
Have no idea why. Variations in the midpipe??
I chopped the piece off then fitted the midpipe (catted) and found that there was lots of clearance, and the chopping was unnecessary. No harm done, I guess, just carried the gram-strategy a bit further.
Have no idea why. Variations in the midpipe??