Header Installation

[DavidM046]

That first pic really tells me midpipe is too long, making it shorter will pull that front end up above that plate. The only other explanation we sometimes see is deflated/crumbling/worn out motor mounts dropping entire motor too low.

Roger that. I'll give the midpipe adjustment a try. As a side I also installed your Roadster Sport Competition Motor mounts but I'm guessing they're not going to be the issue.

Hopefully I'll get to it tomorrow, if not, then next week.

Thanks again. I'll post the results.

[ChristopherH060]

Brian,
Quick follow-up question. The ND standard header came with a new flat metal gasket. Do I need to add the factory donut gasket too or just the flat one?
Thanks

[Brian]

One or the other...but not both.

[Chairman]

Although the description is excellent, I would like to see the pictures as well but can't. There are small icons where the pictures should be marked "image".
I can see some images later in this topic but not where Brian goes through the step by step installation instructions.
Sorry in advance if this is a rookie question.
Thanks,

[Brian]

Images are working, might be a setting in your browser. I can see them on my phone and desktop, perhaps try another device or another browser because images are still there.

[RodrigoB501]

I had a small exhaust leak coming from where the header bolts to the manifold, I changed the gasket with a Mazda OEM gasket, but the exhaust leak continues, nuts are torqued correctly.
Its the RoadsterSport Street catted ceramic header, am I the only one with this problem so far ?
Do you think the header flange is not flat and straight like it is supposed to be ?
The header was brand new when I bought it.

[Brian]

New gasket should do it, you are using torque wrench and working from the center outward, full torque on inner nuts first right? If you have 2006-2008, you got gasket for 2006-2008 right?

[RodrigoB501]

I re-did everything again today, it’s a 2013 and I used gasket part# L327-13-460B, the exhaust leak still the same, everything’s torqued to values, tightening from center out, no luck, so I loosened the header again to check the flange, took the gasket out and rested the header against the engine block, tightened the nuts ( did not torqued them ) the flange isn’t straight, seems to be warped in the middle, thus creating the leak. I will take the header out to reinstall the OEM header, it’s very disappointing, this header wasn’t cheap

[Brian]

Sorry for the trouble, factory has a QC check of all the headers before they are packed for shipment and that flange flatness is one thing they are supposed to check before it goes anywhere. If they missed this one, I want to see it and make them replace it for you. Please send me a picture of it against a true flat edge.

[RodrigoB501]

So I installed the second header, while it’s better, still leaks, only on one side this time, right by the firewall.
I wonder if I can buy a crush gasket from Magaflow, the one they use with their 06-08 catted header, or one from Skunk2.

[Brian]

Doing torque in pattern from center outward with torque wrench right? Assuming so, check a second torque wrench to see if it agrees, we are never having even one leak with any brand of header with our installs here. Racing Beat flanges in particular are rarely flat because they are cast and yet we always get them installed without leak and the secret is just working with fresh gaskets from the middle nuts to the sides and it will seal right up every time.

[OpusMX5]

From Installation instructions: "but buyers of ceramic versions should chase the threads on header outlet with 10x1.25 thread chaser to clear coating from threads"
This is my first ceramic coated header and I'm surprised this simple sounding step, requiring a special tool, isn't done at the factory. I have never heard of or used a 'thread chaser' and am not sure where to buy one. Can I just use a tap and die set?

[Brian]

From Installation instructions: "but buyers of ceramic versions should chase the threads on header outlet with 10x1.25 thread chaser to clear coating from threads"
This is my first ceramic coated header and I'm surprised this simple sounding step, requiring a special tool, isn't done at the factory. I have never heard of or used a 'thread chaser' and am not sure where to buy one. Can I just use a tap and die set?

Check a 10mm bolt through the hole, likely nothing has to be done.

[OpusMX5]

Check a 10mm bolt through the hole, likely nothing has to be done.

Thanks Brian. I already figured out how to make a chaser and it worked quite easily, but removed such little material that a plain bolt may have done the job too.

[ChanceS905]

Nd factory manifold hitting valve cover wont just lift straight up. About to lose temper lol