Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Miata Parts, Intakes, Superchargers, Headers, Exhausts, Shocks, Springs, Sway Bars, Brake Kits, Autocross and track mods.
Nuvolari
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:21 am

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by Nuvolari »

Is GWR sways suitable for autocross? I've ordered them but now not sure about right choise.

Also what is the weight comparision between sways? GWR, Progress etc.
Brian
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Location: San Diego CA
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Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by Brian »

skeeler wrote:
Brian wrote:Assuming ND/Fiat

Progress
Features:
-Size: FRONT 28.5 mm (hollow bar; 6.35mm side-wall)
-Size: REAR 17.5 mm SOLID
Brian, the product description for the ND Progress bars say the rear OD is 16 mm, but you say 17.5 here. Which is correct?

Thanks.
Product descriptions are correct. ND rear is indeed 16mm, NC is REAR 17.5 mm.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian
Site Admin
Posts: 11308
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA
Contact:

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by Brian »

Nuvolari wrote:Is GWR sways suitable for autocross? I've ordered them but now not sure about right choise.

Also what is the weight comparision between sways? GWR, Progress etc.
I have taken home Top Time of Day with our bars many times, so answer is a very big YES to autocross use, that's how they were developed. Sorry, don't recall individual bar weights off top of my head.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
avera01
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:20 pm

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by avera01 »

Update and Issue:

Up until last week, the clunking noise has pretty much subsided (to once in a while) after re-greasing the rear SB and adjusting the front collars further out to about 3/16". Last week I raised the front wheels one at a time with a jack to clean the rust off the rotor edge. Immediately afterwards the clunking sound rear appeared and a bit louder. Still could not really tell if it was the front or rear SB.

Today, I removed the rear SB and the sound was still there. Reinstalled the rear SB then I removed the front right collar (passenger side) and still the sound. Did not remove the left collar as I thought the sound was now coming form the front right. But with the metal and other sound in the car, the clunking sound heard in the cabin could be coming from anywhere.

Note: it is my understanding that the installer lowered the sub-frame to install the SB. I have an appointment with him later next week to go over the procedure, check things out and re-torque the sub-frame. In the meantime, could the sound be coming some bolt in the sub-frame? If so, can someone advise what to check and perhaps send me a diagram or photo of which bolts to check and their torque specs?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Not a good thing with the wife...

The sound is now heard even while driving straight as the tire moves over minor bumps, really annoying and worrisome.
rastap
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:54 pm
Location: Los Angeles

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by rastap »

It's the brakes. I believe there's a TSB on this.
avera01
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:20 pm

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by avera01 »

The front brakes are Wilwood LBBK.

As for the clunking sound, I think I found the problem. The passenger end link appeared to be defective since the gasket was off the ball area and the two rings clamps loose and flopping freely plus the was a little give the connection as though the bolt was not tight.

However in trying to remove I ran into a new problem. At first I tried to tighten it using a hand wrench and Allen tool. Did not seem to tighten so I decided to take it off. The top nut came off easily, but the bottom nut or bolt is shredded (inside the nut area) perhaps from being over tighten by the shop.

I can’t remove the bottom nut, the bolt turns but the nut stays in place. When I first checked the endlinks, I did not check the bottom part as the tire was still on and it was hard to see the bottom part.

Drove the car slowly without the one endlink attached and no noise! Either straight, backing out of driveway or easy left turn, silent. I did not check the driver side since the noise was gone but so was the SB effectively. Was very careful and the SB was quite secure.

I have given up on these adjustable links (since I am not lowering the car) and going to replace them with the stock end link. However I can’t think of anyway of removing the nut without using a Dremel to cut it off, not enough space to cut the bolt.

Before I do any cutting, any issue with the sparks thrown off while cutting? I don’t want to have a major problem (i.e, explosion). Or does anyone else have a suggestion for removing the nut?
avera01
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:20 pm

Re: Roadster Sport vs. Progress Sway

Post by avera01 »

Problem resolved, it was the endlink. Again thanks to GWR for sending a replacement link. It appears that the nut shredded on install. The bolt threads are good, no apparent damage. Had to cut the nut off to remove and replace the assembly. Didn't take too long.

I think the issue with the rubber gasket and ring clamps is the use of a power tool on the Allen bolt while holding the nut steadfast with a wrench. The rapid turning of the bolt would cause the gasket to bind and pinch off the "head" part. Not a big deal in re-attaching it. The power tool was first used, after the nut was screwed in place by hand, to move the nut along the bolt. Then it was tightened and torque by hand.

Will hold onto the OEM endlinks as backup.
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