Header Installation

[Brian]

Hi Brian. I did the 1.8 header and midpipe this weekend on my NC. When moving the studs from the downstream connection on the old header to the new header, I noticed that the side of the studs that goes into the header flange is not long enough to screw a nut on it. The stud is threaded into the header flange and then the spring is compressed on the midpipe flange, and that’s the only nut holding that connection in place. Is that correct? Or do I need to buy new studs so I can put a nut on the header side too?

Customers now and then have the flange nut jammed too far down the stud, suspect that might be your issue, we have never had to buy new hardware to get it done.

[Ryan @ GWR]

First pics of our new 2nd Generation of our 1.8" Header for NC. Same awesome flow and features, but with even more improvements:

- TIG welded for even cleaner finish
- comes with a fresh "donut" gasket for the header to midpipe connection included
- Improved clearance to the passenger side engine mount bracket, so now you can run this header with any of our engine mount options AND even our engine drop brackets.

[HenryT627]

With regard to pushing the alternator back after installing the new header, if you don't have someone to help release the tension as mentioned in the instructions, you can remove the battery holder and use a brake pad spreading tool with a 2x4 to move the alternator back to its original position.

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