Header Installation

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.
Brian
Site Admin
Posts: 11366
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA
Contact:

Re: Header Installation

Post by Brian »

KevinB238 wrote:Hi Brian. I did the 1.8 header and midpipe this weekend on my NC. When moving the studs from the downstream connection on the old header to the new header, I noticed that the side of the studs that goes into the header flange is not long enough to screw a nut on it. The stud is threaded into the header flange and then the spring is compressed on the midpipe flange, and that’s the only nut holding that connection in place. Is that correct? Or do I need to buy new studs so I can put a nut on the header side too?
Customers now and then have the flange nut jammed too far down the stud, suspect that might be your issue, we have never had to buy new hardware to get it done.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Ryan @ GWR
Posts: 501
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2014 11:37 pm

Re: Header Installation

Post by Ryan @ GWR »

First pics of our new 2nd Generation of our 1.8" Header for NC. Same awesome flow and features, but with even more improvements:

- TIG welded for even cleaner finish
- comes with a fresh "donut" gasket for the header to midpipe connection included
- Improved clearance to the passenger side engine mount bracket, so now you can run this header with any of our engine mount options AND even our engine drop brackets.
GRC-04_1.jpg
GRC-04_2.jpg
GRC-04_4.jpg
HenryT627
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2022 12:49 pm

Re: Header Installation

Post by HenryT627 »

With regard to pushing the alternator back after installing the new header, if you don't have someone to help release the tension as mentioned in the instructions, you can remove the battery holder and use a brake pad spreading tool with a 2x4 to move the alternator back to its original position.
IMG_0728.jpg
IMG_0728.jpg (413.34 KiB) Viewed 17586 times
KathyF656
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2023 12:25 pm

Re: Header Installation

Post by KathyF656 »

I ran into an issue installing my header over my Holiday break. The header to mid-pipe connection gave me all kinds of issues not wanting to line up correctly. I ended up having to disconnect the muffler in order to get the bolts at the header and mid-pipe connection to line up. The mid-pipe is really close to the large brace and makes contact every once in a while, too. I suspect my motor mounts may have squished a bit as the car has 183,000 miles and not sure if the mounts have ever been replaced.

I am enjoying the header, but I am disappointed in the volume of the exhaust. My car came with a Flyin' Miata muffler already installed and I was expecting the volume to go up a lot more than it did when I put the header in. It has a great tone, but I wish it was a bit louder. I was hoping the header would fix my volume issue, and while it is better, it is just not as loud as I would like it. I do not want it super loud, but I can barely hear the exhaust with the top down.
Brian
Site Admin
Posts: 11366
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA
Contact:

Re: Header Installation

Post by Brian »

YES, sounds like motor mounts, they do not last 100,000 miles and at 183,000 they have settled so much that your motor is likely sitting an inch lower than when the car left the factory.

Stock midpipe? With our midpipes they are adjustable for height above the braces via the slip joint. If stock midpipe you likely need fresh motor mounts to get it back higher but if our midpipes then you can also make the midpipe shorter at the slip joint and that lift it more above the braces. Also have a look at the hangers, any worn and torn? If stock midpipe then our midpipes with more diameter can also make more sound.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
KathyF656
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2023 12:25 pm

Re: Header Installation

Post by KathyF656 »

Yes, factory mid-pipe.

I installed a set of your upgraded mounts over the weekend. I am waiting for the mounts to "break-in" before making any judgements, I am happy so far. My mystery noise is still present however and my factory mounts, they must have been changed at some point, were in decent shape, and only showed about a 1/4" of compression compared to the new mounts.

I am getting a nasty noise when turning left, but not always, that kind of sounds like a dragging or rubbing. I have checked all the wheel bearings for play, and they all seem tight and make no noise when spinning the tire in the air. The noise does have some oscitations to it like a wheel bearing, but I have never had a wheel bearing make noise and then stop about a 1/8 of a mile later and only make noise sometimes while turning.
Post Reply