About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
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Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
Just wondering if the 17x9 6ULR's with the 63mm offset meant for the S2000's and 235's would fit on the NC. I am running KW's which have small dia springs and a 13.75in ride height. Turned my wheels full lock and it looked like it would be tight but possibly doable even if you had to use 5 or 7mm spacers for some added inside clearance. It would still keep them from poking out past the front fenders like they do on the yellow nc .
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
Have not tried the 63...doubt they would fit without the spacers. I much prefer the 48mm...perfect flush fit on an NC that is lowered and running aggressive camber (such as 1.5 negative).
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
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- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:14 pm
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
I am seriously gonna get these.
I was thinking the tungsten color (http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -0604.html) with the hubcentric rings on toyo T1R 235/40/17.
W/ mazdaspeed springs on a PRHT, are they guaranteed to fit? if so I might buy em right now!
I was thinking the tungsten color (http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -0604.html) with the hubcentric rings on toyo T1R 235/40/17.
W/ mazdaspeed springs on a PRHT, are they guaranteed to fit? if so I might buy em right now!
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
Can't guarantee....too many variables. But, run at least 1.5 negative camber on a lowered MX5 and you should have no issue with standard 235/40/17 street tires (not oversized race tire).
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
17-9 Toyo R888 17 235 40
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Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
Duratec wrote:17-9 Toyo R888 17 235 40
Looks great!
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
those are the tungsten right duratec? thanks for the pic, now I can see what it will look like on my silver. (split between nickel and tungsten)
06 turbo
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
Nickel! And you need to roll the rear fenders if you like to use Toyo R888 235 40. Ride height front 335mm Rear 345mm Öhlins coilovers.
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:14 pm
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
Got the tungsten style on my Stormy Blue installed on monday. Finally got the alignment too. If what they are at right now is 1.2º (darn dealership didn't give me the readout), then they were seriously cambered before!
Tungsten 6ULR on 235/40 17 Proxes R1R - Mazdaspeed springs.
Front -
Camber - -1.2º
Toe - 0
Rear -
Camber - -1.3º
Toe - 0
Tungsten 6ULR on 235/40 17 Proxes R1R - Mazdaspeed springs.
Front -
Camber - -1.2º
Toe - 0
Rear -
Camber - -1.3º
Toe - 0
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:14 pm
Re: About the new 6ULR 17x9 wheel's...FINALLY IN STOCK
For those of you looking for what alignment settings allows these wheels to fit - here is some information from my TWO alignments:
Initially (from my mazda dealership) was supposed to be -1.2º camber front, -1.3º camber rear, 0 toe on all. What I actually got was all over the place, they did not give me a readout so I did not see how horrible my wheels were. My rear passenger wheel would rub the lip around turns with bumps, or on hard bumps on the straight. I had two or three really bad hits, afterwards I pulled off about 1-2mm thick strips of tread off of the side of the tread blocks on my R1Rs where the fender lip just cut right through the rubber.
It is just cutting off tread, It is not down to the base of the grooves (only about 1/2 of the very very edge of my tread blocks was shaved) so I am not worried about blowing a tire.
When I got the car aligned a second time, I decided to give it more camber in hopes that the top of the tire would slide behind the lip on its way up the camber curve and I would be okay. I asked them to set the front to -1.5º and the rear to -1.8º. They got them dead on, but now I rub everywhere. What I did not think was more camber ment that my tire was 'taller' in the respect that it was no longer sitting flush against the road, rather tilted a little bit. I can barely get over speed bumps without rubbing both rear tires .
I have decided I have a few options: Purchase springs/shocks/coilovers in hopes that increased suspension would keep it from hitting, but I have no more play money after the tires/rims . Second is to try another alignment, this time at a major degree (-2.5 or something) in hopes to get the initial response I was looking for, the tires to slide behind the lip. Problem is another alignment is another $80, and two already is enough. So I have decided on option three, which is to roll the fenders. It is not the cheapest option, but it sure has the most promising results.
Final thoughts based off of my experience - Run some serious camber, serious suspension, or roll the fenders, but they will not fit without some other modification. Low camber around -0.5º or less might work, since my drivers side rear was at -0.9º and it rubbed less than my passenger rear at -1.4º (after first alignment from mazda).
tootles!
Initially (from my mazda dealership) was supposed to be -1.2º camber front, -1.3º camber rear, 0 toe on all. What I actually got was all over the place, they did not give me a readout so I did not see how horrible my wheels were. My rear passenger wheel would rub the lip around turns with bumps, or on hard bumps on the straight. I had two or three really bad hits, afterwards I pulled off about 1-2mm thick strips of tread off of the side of the tread blocks on my R1Rs where the fender lip just cut right through the rubber.
It is just cutting off tread, It is not down to the base of the grooves (only about 1/2 of the very very edge of my tread blocks was shaved) so I am not worried about blowing a tire.
When I got the car aligned a second time, I decided to give it more camber in hopes that the top of the tire would slide behind the lip on its way up the camber curve and I would be okay. I asked them to set the front to -1.5º and the rear to -1.8º. They got them dead on, but now I rub everywhere. What I did not think was more camber ment that my tire was 'taller' in the respect that it was no longer sitting flush against the road, rather tilted a little bit. I can barely get over speed bumps without rubbing both rear tires .
I have decided I have a few options: Purchase springs/shocks/coilovers in hopes that increased suspension would keep it from hitting, but I have no more play money after the tires/rims . Second is to try another alignment, this time at a major degree (-2.5 or something) in hopes to get the initial response I was looking for, the tires to slide behind the lip. Problem is another alignment is another $80, and two already is enough. So I have decided on option three, which is to roll the fenders. It is not the cheapest option, but it sure has the most promising results.
Final thoughts based off of my experience - Run some serious camber, serious suspension, or roll the fenders, but they will not fit without some other modification. Low camber around -0.5º or less might work, since my drivers side rear was at -0.9º and it rubbed less than my passenger rear at -1.4º (after first alignment from mazda).
tootles!