NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Miata Parts, Intakes, Superchargers, Headers, Exhausts, Shocks, Springs, Sway Bars, Brake Kits, Autocross and track mods.
morrisg
Posts: 128
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 12:02 am

Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by morrisg »

Ok, I have removed the stock exhaust system from my 2009 Touring 6 speed and here are the weights of the individual pieces:

Stock header is 16 lbs not counting the heat shields; stock midpipe is 17.5 lbs; stock muffler is 27 lbs, so total stock system is 60.5 lbs.

The PPE long tube header system came in at 34.5 lbs without any muffler; add 7 lbs for a Goodwin Race Single muffler for a total of about 41.5 lbs.

That's a total savings of 19 lbs overall, but it's broken up into some interesting chunks: the PPE header is 2 lbs lighter than stock; the PPE midpipe is 3 lbs heavier than stock; the Goodwin Race Single is 20 lbs lighter than stock. So this exhaust system is going to remove a great deal of weight (20 lbs) from the rear with a large moment arm to the center of gravity of the car. This should reduce any rear pendulum effect in autox maneuvers, meaning more stick at the rear!

Gee, all this and more power, too!
morrisg
Posts: 128
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 12:02 am

Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by morrisg »

Install Notes on the PPE Long Tube Header. I have the car mostly back together except for the battery and resonator and last end pipe plus turndown. Just wanted to post some experience with the install here before I forget.

I removed the battery, battery case, and completely removed the alternator. This is simple, just a few screws and it really opens things up for access to the other parts. Removing the drive belt from the alternator pulley is simple as Mazda uses a spring tensioner. Just put a 14mm wrench on it and rotate it clockwise to relieve tension on the belt and slip it off the pulley.

I built my own extensions for the oxygen sensors by cutting the wires and splicing in 30 inches of high temperature teflon wire for the first sensor (pre cat) (black connector) and splicing in 42 inches of wire for the second sensor (post cat) (gray connector). The 30 inches is about right for my mounting path, but the 42 inches is maybe 4 inches too long. I routed the wires using cable mounts, only I took off the normal foam sticky pads and used 3M VHB foam sticky pads, plus I cleaned the mounting points on the car using isopropyl alcohol. I chose to route the sensor wiring up against the heat shield on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel and transitioned to the metal bodywork as the wires entered the engine compartment. This keeps the wiring as far away from the header as possible. However, this was a major PITA: If Brian has extensions for both oxygen sensors I recommend you purchase them and make this plug and play.

Getting the stock header out was not easy as the opening just didn't seem big enough, even without the battery case or alternator in the way. Don't worry, just keep trying things and be gentle, don't force anything. I got things wedged once or twice and it took me awhile to undo my mistakes. Patience, grasshopper, it does come out without using a hammer. Same advice for putting the PPE header in. At one point I thought I had to remove the motor mount, but you don't. Just backed out, started over and found a way to get it in. I think I tilted the header more vertical so the pipes went straight down and moved things towards the rear of the engine compartment as much as possible and then it slipped in. It goes in from the top, though I did try to get it in from below once! Wrong Answer! :<P

You won't need a new exhaust gasket or any sealer as the Mazda stock one is metal and doesn't use any sealer or goop.

Take a picture of how the stock midpipe is connected to the stock header using the springs. You will copy that order of hardware with the PPE header / midpipe and it's easier to look at a pic than to try to remember at 10pm.

After the PPE header was in, I was trying to fasten the heat shield with the screws that go in from underneath. Once I got the two front screws started, it was much easier to go underneath the car and use two 6 inch extensions and a 3 inch extension for my wrench and then just tighten them from below. I didn't do it this way when removing the heat shield so I don't know if it is possible when the stock header is in place.

Ok, that's it for now. I'll finish tomorrow and report on how things turned out.
mitchman
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 11:38 am
Location: Kennewick, WA

Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by mitchman »

(Morris is probably enjoying his new header so much he hasn't provided a final post for us!)
'06 MX-5 (STR)
morrisg
Posts: 128
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 12:02 am

Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by morrisg »

I haven't posted til now because I have little to report, but since you asked, here is the state of things.

Everything went together easily and fits well. It was important to not tighten the midpipe to header or the clamps holding the three midpipe sections until everything was mounted and positioned properly. Then it was easy to tighten the spring loaded bolts for the midpipe to header connection and then the clamps holding the resonator to the fore and aft sections of the midpipe.

Started the car and everything worked well, No CELs at all, not at the beginning and none up to now.

However, I tried a simple turndown pipe after the midpipe because that is what I had on hand, and it is LOUD. So loud, that I only opened the throttle completely twice on an uphill stretch of test road further away from my house, a lot further away. My butt dyno is no more accurate than anyone elses, but it told me there was a LOT MORE POWER, especially in the midrange. But it was so loud, I was sure any cop within a mile of me would come straight to me with his lights on.

So I came home and put the stock muffler on. And it works but has choked off most of the new found power (again, butt dyno results and not reliable). So I have ordered a Goodwin Race Single with baffle, contacted a friend with a Goodwin Street Single, and I'm going to test May 5 & 6 at an event. We'll see what levels the car blows and I'll report if either of these setups brings it into sound compliance for SCCA STR class.

In the meantime, the San Diego Tour is running this weekend and they will also take sound measurements. I know of two cars that will have the PPE LTH installed and we will see how they do.
mitchman
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 11:38 am
Location: Kennewick, WA

Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by mitchman »

Thanks for the update Morris. I look forward to hearing your car next weekend. Should sound AWESOME! :)
'06 MX-5 (STR)
Brian
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Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by Brian »

Dyno Report.....supplied by PPE.

Dyno Run 1: Stock car with only an intake.
Dyno Run 2: PPE Long tube header +PPE midpipe + GW RoadsterSport Race muffler + same intake.

Conclusion:
V2 PPE Long tube header + PPE midpipe with free flowing muffler improves a stock car by gain + 12.7hp, + 9.8tq
Attachments
PPE Long Tube MX5 Header vs Stock Dyno.jpg
PPE Long Tube MX5 Header vs Stock Dyno.jpg (80.96 KiB) Viewed 12295 times
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian
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Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by Brian »

Supplied by PPE, this is a very interesting comparison our PPE STR header with converter, and the new PPE LONG TUBE header. The comparison shows the gains in torque across a broad range.

1: STR Prepped MX5: 2 dynos (File: PPEMX5 V1_vs_V2.pdf)
Dyno 1 PPE orig catted header + PPE midpipe and GW RoadsterSport Race muffler: 154.3hp; 138.1 ft-lbs torque
Dyno 2 PPE Long tube header +PPE midpipe + GW RoadsterSport Race muffler: 154.3hp, 144.1 tq

Conclusion:
V2 vs V1 header in tuned STR car has same max hp, but, + 6.0tq
Attachments
PPE Long Tube vs PPE STR Header.jpg
PPE Long Tube vs PPE STR Header.jpg (82.29 KiB) Viewed 12294 times
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
morrisg
Posts: 128
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 12:02 am

Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by morrisg »

The interesting thing about the stock to PPE header dyno chart is not just the 9% horsepower gain at peak.

Look all across the rpm band and what you see are solid gains from 2500 rpm right up to 6800 rpm. And a big chunk comes in at 3750 to 5200 rpm. This really shows off the value of those long primaries in building torque down in the midrange. It looks great higher in the rpm range too!

I wonder what will happen when someone does the tuning of the ECU with this setup in place. I haven't seen any A/F ratios with these dyno runs, so we don't know if there's more power that's been left on the table by the stock tune. Anyone know if MotoEast is planning on doing this? Or Dynotronics? It might be interesting to see what a specific tune can add to these curves.

Great looking header performance! You might be seeing more sales of this setup, Brian!
mitchman
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 11:38 am
Location: Kennewick, WA

Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by mitchman »

Thanks for posting this Brian. I wonder how much weight is saved going from the catted header to the long tube (no cat) header?
'06 MX-5 (STR)
Brian
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Re: NEW LONG TUBE HEADERS.....

Post by Brian »

mitchman wrote:Thanks for posting this Brian. I wonder how much weight is saved going from the catted header to the long tube (no cat) header?
Pretty good data for that question at top of this page.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
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