NC stock height adjustable shock options

[MitchC635]

Live in a little mountain town and my daily commute is down twisty mountain roads, so loving my new to me low miles 2013 PRHT GT - best commuter car I've ever had! Racing beat sway bars have made a big difference in reducing roll, and I'd like to increase spring rate and add adjustable shocks to better stabilize the car when hitting bumps on harder turns. However, I can't lower the car as it already rubs the front splitter on some of the driveways I regularly utilize around town. Ordered the Toxico HTS adjustable shocks from you, but was told the manufacturer was no longer supplying them. Haven't been able to source any other quality adjustable shocks that would maintain stock height - any suggestions?

Also thinking that stock sport version springs are my best bet for a slightly higher spring rate without lowering the car. Any other suggestions, and can I get a take off set of sport springs from GWR?

[Brian]

Sorry, there are no higher rate springs without some lowering, our Progress Springs were the factory MSR package springs and they still lower the car slightly. The KONI is the top choice in adjustable shock but indeed that adds another half inch of lowering. That's about it on adjustable shocks, there are no other choices commonly available, though I think our friends at 949 Racing might offer their Xida choice so perhaps have a look over there.

[MitchC635]

Yeah, you nailed it with the Progress springs for the NC - they are all over the internet as the best option for most street MX5s, just can't lose the height where I'm at. Please save me a set of Mazda Sport suspension springs the next NC 2 that you guys do a spring swap on, and I'll be happy to buy them from you. Looks like that's the best I can do, and definitely better than the standard totally soft springs.

[MitchC635]

Not finding adjustable shocks that don't lower the car now that Toxico has stopped shipping theirs. Noticed that you carry KYB replacement shock sets for the NC, but use the GR2 up front and the gas adjust in the rear. The gas adjust has received good reviews that indicate some advantages over the GR2 - any reason GWR doesn't offer the gas adjust for the front?

[jboemler]

Seems like what you want are coilovers, adjusted to stock height.

[MitchC635]

Coilovers would be nice, but are more investment than I'm willing to make at this point. I'm actually pretty happy with the stock suspension, RB sways and Cobalt shock tower brace. Gives accurate turn in and reduces lean to keep the tires in better contact with the road for extra G capability. Won't be racing so just need more control when hitting bumps during hard cornering which causes uncomfortably large bounces with the stock suspension. Just hitting 40k on the original shocks, so they are likely ready to be replaced anyway. The two stage damping of the KYB gas adjust might be enough to fix what really needs to be fixed for my usage - just want to be sure why GWR sells them for the rear and not the front.

[jboemler]

Have you driven a car with coilovers? They change the entire personality of the car, and you might want to try them out before you waste your money putting lipstick on the stock suspension.

[MitchC635]

Not looking to completely change the personality of the car, would just like a little better control than the stock shocks provide. Noticed that Brian wrote up the the Konis as "may result in some lowering effect because of the relatively lower gas pressure in the twin tube design (typically up to 3/4 inch). To properly realize this effect you need to have the car ON THE GROUND before you torque the bolts that connect the upper A arms to the car in the front, and the upper links in the rear)."

Does this mean that if you don't compress the suspension completely before torqueing those bolts that it can maintain closer to the stock height with the Konis on? If that can be done are there any negative affects that it might cause?

[DanielS172]

If you don't torque the suspension bolts with the car loaded/on the ground then the A-arm bushings will twist, leading to an awkward ride height and rapid bushing failure. That's not a way to maintain a higher ride height.