JIC's installed for 2006 NC MX-5 Miata!!!

Post by **Brian** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 7:22 am

Hi Ron,

I had the same observation about the fronts sticking out more than the rear. That becomes particularly obvious with the 285s up front AND back. Nonetheless, I did take a run around the block with both my 285s on the passenger side and did not get a rub. I did not take a hard run through the hills with the 285s up front as I did with the 245s...so I need more playing with those up front before I can say more about that size.

Post by **Brian** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 7:41 am

Here is a shot down the side that better shows the amount of stick out...

v67gsr · Post by **v67gsr** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 9:02 am

What kind of offset are we talking about with this RP-F1?

Post by **Brian** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:12 pm

See the previous page...special order 45mm

v67gsr · Post by **v67gsr** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:39 pm

I'm suprise with 45mm offset and 285 tires only stick out that much.

But far you roll the fender?

Can you provide some picture as a guide?

I am looking for new set of rims and have avery hard time to figure out what will fot and what not.

Thanks for any input.

Post by **Brian** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:46 pm

This is a RACE setup. The whole idea of these is for autocross. There are some who will be racing their NC in CSP and SM2 class autocross and that is the ONLY intent on these wheels. You would NOT want this fitment or anything like this for street use...because it would pepper the side of your car with rocks on a daily basis.

For street use...see our many other threads here on NC fitment. In brief, for street use stay in the range of 7 to 8 inches and keep the offset at 48mm to 50mm or thereabouts and you won't have any issues. We have several wheels, including a 7.5 inch wide version of this same RP-F1, and an 8 inch wide RPO3 which are in that range and perfect for street use.

v67gsr · Post by **v67gsr** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:58 pm

Yeah. I generally know the width and offset I need. And thats where the hard part come. Wheel with that high range offset is rare. 45 is very easy to find but then I may experience rubbing like you've mention on some other post. It is a headache to decide what to get.

Post by **Brian** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:05 pm

Yep, not a lot of LIGHT quality choices. Here is a pic of our car with those RPO3s in 17x8 and 48mm offset. You can see that this combo is right out to the lip edge.... This is as tight as you can safely get with the fender lips in a street NC in my opinion and even this required a light fender roll for the rears to clear with this tire size of 235/40/17s....but a 215 or 225 street tire should clear without the roll:

yellowcoupe · Post by **yellowcoupe** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:47 pm

Hi guys,

I see Brian and some people mention "fender roll" here and there.
How is it done and with what equipment?
Can this be done by hand without some special tool/machine?
If so, how so?

Would it dent/change the shape of the arches?

The folded lip of the rear wheel housing looks like it could be bent inwards very easily with a strong metal tool protected with a soft smooth cloth perhaps...

Brian wrote:Yep, not a lot of LIGHT quality choices. Here is a pic of our car with those RPO3s in 17x8 and 48mm offset. You can see that this combo is right out to the lip edge.... This is as tight as you can safely get with the fender lips in a street NC in my opinion and even this required a light fender roll for the rears to clear with this tire size of 235/40/17s....but a 215 or 225 street tire should clear without the roll:

Post by **Brian** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:12 pm

We have an Eastwood fender rolling tool. Used it today on a Mazda 3. It makes quick and very neat work of the job.

But the good old wooden baseball bat method still works. Do some Google searches of "fender roll baseball bat" and similar and you will find websites with pics and instructions. The basic idea is to insert the bat between the tire and fender lip. You then wedge it against the lip and roll it back and forth on the tire and SLOWLY work the metal lip until nearly flat with the fender metal.