Header Installation

Installations instructions for MonsterFlow intakes, Big Brake Kits, shocks and more.

Re: Header Installation

Postby SinY308 » Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:13 pm

Hey folks,

Just finished torquing down all of the flanges after installing the RS catted headers...
Only hiccup I'm running into is I have a 1/4 in. gap evenly around the connection at the header/factory midpipe...pretty much the donut gasket is exposed...
I've sprayed it with soapy water when the car idles with no noticeable leaks, but haven't had a chance to check at higher rpms... I'm trying to see if this is "normal." If not, I suppose I'll be dropping some of the cross braces and midpipe to make the proper adjustments...

Thanks in advance!!! :?
SinY308
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2016 9:07 pm

Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:48 pm

Yes...normal. It is a ball/socket union designed to move as the engine rocks back and forth. Without the gap it would not swivel, the springs keep tension and seal.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian
Site Admin
 
Posts: 8360
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA

Re: Header Installation

Postby SinY308 » Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:55 pm

Brian wrote:Yes...normal. It is a ball/socket union designed to move as the engine rocks back and forth. Without the gap it would not swivel.


ahha thanks. sorry for the hassle but thanks for the insight! :o :oops:
SinY308
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2016 9:07 pm

Re: Header Installation

Postby mx5coup » Fri Jun 02, 2017 10:11 am

Hey Brian:

Question for you, the RoadsterSport Header (ceramic coated), is it supposed to sit really close the back of the alternator? I see there was heat tape included with the header. I had my local shop install the header and they applied the heat tape to the back of the alternator but was wondering if it is supposed to sit so close?

I can take pics if needed. Overall love the added power down low.

Thanks!
Kevin
mx5coup
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:29 pm
Location: Goffstown, NH

Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Fri Jun 02, 2017 10:44 am

Yep, that's why the tape is included though later testing showed it was not needed. The part it sits close to is the air scoop for the alternator and even without the tape it doesn't get hot enough to be issue because there is so much airflow directed into that space.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian
Site Admin
 
Posts: 8360
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA

Re: Header Installation

Postby mx5coup » Fri Jun 02, 2017 11:21 am

Brian wrote:Yep, that's why the tape is included though later testing showed it was not needed. The part it sits close to is the air scoop for the alternator and even without the tape it doesn't get hot enough to be issue because there is so much airflow directed into that space.


Thanks Brian and for getting back to me so quickly.

Kevin
mx5coup
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:29 pm
Location: Goffstown, NH

Re: Header Installation

Postby BrodieH315 » Mon Aug 21, 2017 10:34 pm

So, I just finished up installed the Gen1 LT header. Instructions were spot on. My problem is the midpipe resonator. I understand it's supposed to hang pretty low. The issue is that no amount of herking or jerking will make it not contact the rear subframe and it's causing rattle. I've fitted all the piping together as tight as I can. The resonator looks like it has room to be a little more forward on the pipe. I could use some advice. Was it made with it slightly out of spec, or did I do something wrong? It seems like the entire midpipe system is maybe an inch too long. The only place I can conceivably think I messed up is the mating of the resonator piping to the cat piping.
Attachments
IMG_20170821_222112.jpg
Height check
IMG_20170821_222005.jpg
Resonator / Subframe
BrodieH315
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:08 pm

Re: Header Installation

Postby BrodieH315 » Tue Aug 22, 2017 8:30 am

here's a better image of what I think the issue is:

additionally, I've further attempted to find the click positions in the flex joint, but all I can get is flex. no matter how hard I bend it, it doesn't hold a position.
Attachments
received_10209543209527464.jpeg
midpipe mating
BrodieH315
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:08 pm

Re: Header Installation

Postby BrodieH315 » Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:50 am

An update for anyone curious: Goodwin sent me out new midpipe pieces and those two both fit perfectly. It's pretty loud at full throttle with the SuperStreet, but is mostly okay at light throttle. Once music is turned up, it mostly fades away.
BrodieH315
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:08 pm

Re: Header Installation

Postby DanielS172 » Fri Nov 10, 2017 9:10 pm

Is CARB approval still in the works for the catted version of the header? I'd love to get one!
2006 with NC3 front end | OEM hardtop | full header/exhaust | FM stage II suspension and Wilwood LBBK | Blackbird Fabworx GT3 roll bar | TRMotorsports FF10s.
DanielS172
 
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 7:09 pm

Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Sat Nov 11, 2017 6:11 am

DanielS172 wrote:Is CARB approval still in the works for the catted version of the header? I'd love to get one!


That's the NC catted header you are talking about and we had to give that up after we figured out the certified core needed for CARB turned out to be far too massive in size to fit the space in that header design. So, we are moving forward on CARB testing Helmholtz NC midpipe only.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian
Site Admin
 
Posts: 8360
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA

Complete Exhaust Install, clearance issue

Postby DavidM046 » Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:49 pm

Hello all!

Last weekend I installed a complete Roadster sport combo. Header, Helmholtz midpipe and the RoadsterSport exhaust. I also installed a new serpentine belt and new motor mounts while I was in there but they're all good.

So, I'm done, it sounds great and the car is running very, very nicely. However, there is definitely a rattle so I went back under and this is what I found

In order to get the cover plates back on under the car, I had to lift the mid pipe up so high the hanger is basically useless as the upper hanger is freely banging into the pipe and the pipe is not really hanging from it. It's hard to tell from this picture but the rubber hanger is actually rotated backwards (the lower end it towards the rear of the car) Also, the midpipe is only about 1/4" off the coverplate that is below it so it's not like I can lower it much.
hanger 1.jpg


Even worse, the end of the midpipe that is right off the header is maybe a 1/16 of an inch off the cover plate below it and is already rubbing.
impact.jpg


This is a look down stream from the midpipe hanger to give an idea of what it looks like. It was hanging REALLY low before and this car is already low enough. I was worried I was going to rip it off it I went over a speed bump.
down stream.jpg


The muffler hangers seem fine. This is the passenger side, front. I was going to upload the rear hanger also but it looks like I'm limited to 5 pics. The drivers side looks the same.
muff1.jpg




This is a picture upstream from the muffler. The thing that looks like a scuff on the curve is actually mud. I parked in the some grass one evening and that was the result.
upstream.jpg



The next day I went under the car and lifted the midpipe again to get it out of the dirt. I know people say the midpipe hangs low, but with the front of the midpipe maybe 1/16" off the the cover plate below it, if I drop it down, it's going to be ground down in no time.

Did I miss something? The install went really well (took about 9 hours for the entire shooting match) so I can't see what went wrong but something is not fitting.

Any suggestions on what to do or what I missed to fix the interference issues would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
David
DavidM046
 
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 6:00 am

Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:59 pm

Looks like you need to take out some length at midpipe slip joint, proper length will not hang low, will not bang the braces, will not be stretching hanger to the rear. Making it shorter will raise it above the braces, get better alignment on that hanger too. You may need to play with clocking position to get it both shorter and aligned right under the car.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian
Site Admin
 
Posts: 8360
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA

Re: Header Installation

Postby DavidM046 » Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:08 pm

Hey Brian,

I used the slip joint (took as much length out as possible) to raise it up already so I'm going to loosen that up and try again, this time futzing with the clocking at the same time? If so, this could be the trick as I think the slip joint is about as short as it can go right now ( lifted the midpipe up with a jack and then tightened the slip joint)...but I didn't really play with clocking, just made sure the Helmholtz chamber was up and out of the way.

Should I loosen the bolts that hold it onto the header and the muffler to allow a better flex and fit?

What about the end that is barely clearing the plate below the header? I can already see where it's rubbing.

Thanks for the super quick reply.

David
DavidM046
 
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 6:00 am

Re: Header Installation

Postby Brian » Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:12 pm

That first pic really tells me midpipe is too long, making it shorter will pull that front end up above that plate. The only other explanation we sometimes see is deflated/crumbling/worn out motor mounts dropping entire motor too low.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Brian
Site Admin
 
Posts: 8360
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:44 am
Location: San Diego CA

PreviousNext

Return to Installation Instructions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests