Brian wrote:That first pic really tells me midpipe is too long, making it shorter will pull that front end up above that plate. The only other explanation we sometimes see is deflated/crumbling/worn out motor mounts dropping entire motor too low.
Roger that. I'll give the midpipe adjustment a try. As a side I also installed your Roadster Sport Competition Motor mounts but I'm guessing they're not going to be the issue.
Hopefully I'll get to it tomorrow, if not, then next week.
Brian,
Quick follow-up question. The ND standard header came with a new flat metal gasket. Do I need to add the factory donut gasket too or just the flat one?
Thanks
Although the description is excellent, I would like to see the pictures as well but can't. There are small icons where the pictures should be marked "image".
I can see some images later in this topic but not where Brian goes through the step by step installation instructions.
Sorry in advance if this is a rookie question.
Thanks,
Images are working, might be a setting in your browser. I can see them on my phone and desktop, perhaps try another device or another browser because images are still there.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
I had a small exhaust leak coming from where the header bolts to the manifold, I changed the gasket with a Mazda OEM gasket, but the exhaust leak continues, nuts are torqued correctly.
Its the RoadsterSport Street catted ceramic header, am I the only one with this problem so far ?
Do you think the header flange is not flat and straight like it is supposed to be ?
The header was brand new when I bought it.
New gasket should do it, you are using torque wrench and working from the center outward, full torque on inner nuts first right? If you have 2006-2008, you got gasket for 2006-2008 right?
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
Doing torque in pattern from center outward with torque wrench right? Assuming so, check a second torque wrench to see if it agrees, we are never having even one leak with any brand of header with our installs here. Racing Beat flanges in particular are rarely flat because they are cast and yet we always get them installed without leak and the secret is just working with fresh gaskets from the middle nuts to the sides and it will seal right up every time.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
From Installation instructions: "but buyers of ceramic versions should chase the threads on header outlet with 10x1.25 thread chaser to clear coating from threads"
This is my first ceramic coated header and I'm surprised this simple sounding step, requiring a special tool, isn't done at the factory. I have never heard of or used a 'thread chaser' and am not sure where to buy one. Can I just use a tap and die set?
OpusMX5 wrote:From Installation instructions: "but buyers of ceramic versions should chase the threads on header outlet with 10x1.25 thread chaser to clear coating from threads"
This is my first ceramic coated header and I'm surprised this simple sounding step, requiring a special tool, isn't done at the factory. I have never heard of or used a 'thread chaser' and am not sure where to buy one. Can I just use a tap and die set?
Check a 10mm bolt through the hole, likely nothing has to be done.
Brian Goodwin
Good-Win Racing
www.good-win-racing.com
