Mazda Talk Forums

Posted: **Mon May 25, 2020 10:26 am**

KevinB238 wrote:Hi Brian. I did the 1.8 header and midpipe this weekend on my NC. When moving the studs from the downstream connection on the old header to the new header, I noticed that the side of the studs that goes into the header flange is not long enough to screw a nut on it. The stud is threaded into the header flange and then the spring is compressed on the midpipe flange, and that’s the only nut holding that connection in place. Is that correct? Or do I need to buy new studs so I can put a nut on the header side too?

Customers now and then have the flange nut jammed too far down the stud, suspect that might be your issue, we have never had to buy new hardware to get it done.

Posted: **Mon Dec 20, 2021 4:07 pm**

First pics of our new 2nd Generation of our 1.8" Header for NC. Same awesome flow and features, but with even more improvements:

- TIG welded for even cleaner finish
- comes with a fresh "donut" gasket for the header to midpipe connection included
- Improved clearance to the passenger side engine mount bracket, so now you can run this header with any of our engine mount options AND even our engine drop brackets.

Posted: **Tue Nov 07, 2023 12:57 pm**

With regard to pushing the alternator back after installing the new header, if you don't have someone to help release the tension as mentioned in the instructions, you can remove the battery holder and use a brake pad spreading tool with a 2x4 to move the alternator back to its original position.

: IMG_0728.jpg (413.34 KiB) Viewed 18318 times

Posted: **Wed Dec 27, 2023 6:32 am**

I ran into an issue installing my header over my Holiday break. The header to mid-pipe connection gave me all kinds of issues not wanting to line up correctly. I ended up having to disconnect the muffler in order to get the bolts at the header and mid-pipe connection to line up. The mid-pipe is really close to the large brace and makes contact every once in a while, too. I suspect my motor mounts may have squished a bit as the car has 183,000 miles and not sure if the mounts have ever been replaced.

I am enjoying the header, but I am disappointed in the volume of the exhaust. My car came with a Flyin' Miata muffler already installed and I was expecting the volume to go up a lot more than it did when I put the header in. It has a great tone, but I wish it was a bit louder. I was hoping the header would fix my volume issue, and while it is better, it is just not as loud as I would like it. I do not want it super loud, but I can barely hear the exhaust with the top down.

Posted: **Wed Dec 27, 2023 11:07 am**

YES, sounds like motor mounts, they do not last 100,000 miles and at 183,000 they have settled so much that your motor is likely sitting an inch lower than when the car left the factory.

Stock midpipe? With our midpipes they are adjustable for height above the braces via the slip joint. If stock midpipe you likely need fresh motor mounts to get it back higher but if our midpipes then you can also make the midpipe shorter at the slip joint and that lift it more above the braces. Also have a look at the hangers, any worn and torn? If stock midpipe then our midpipes with more diameter can also make more sound.

Posted: **Tue Jan 02, 2024 9:11 am**

Yes, factory mid-pipe.

I installed a set of your upgraded mounts over the weekend. I am waiting for the mounts to "break-in" before making any judgements, I am happy so far. My mystery noise is still present however and my factory mounts, they must have been changed at some point, were in decent shape, and only showed about a 1/4" of compression compared to the new mounts.

I am getting a nasty noise when turning left, but not always, that kind of sounds like a dragging or rubbing. I have checked all the wheel bearings for play, and they all seem tight and make no noise when spinning the tire in the air. The noise does have some oscitations to it like a wheel bearing, but I have never had a wheel bearing make noise and then stop about a 1/8 of a mile later and only make noise sometimes while turning.

Posted: **Thu Aug 01, 2024 8:53 pm**

Brian wrote: ↑Fri Nov 26, 2010 9:30 am That database of header installs (both RoadsterSport header and our Racing Beat header) is getting big enough that we start to see some common issues on those getting a code after header installs...whether they are installing our header or the Racing Beat header. Things we have seen along the way include faulty extension cords where two leads were mixed up by the company that makes the extensions for Racing Beat (and customers who make their own extension cords always seem to have problem so I can't recommend home-made extensions), O2 sensors damaged during install, O2 sensors with broken or pinched over wires that work on/off/on again, O2 sensors just a little out of spec (each is unique). I have had a few customers start their header install with NEW O2 sensors and I do NOT recommend that because it is just more variables in the mix and a disproportionate number of those customers report early issues to be sorted.

On cars where the second sensor sensitivity is the issue we have found success in using a Spark Plug "Non-Fouler" that costs about a dollar. It just backs that second sensor a little out of the stream of flow. Other customers have reported that even just a few washers to back that second sensor outward cured their occasional code issue.

Hello Brian, I will be installing a Max Power header and Helmholz midpipe (already have the SuperQ muffler) on a car with 173k miles. Given its mileage and age (it’s a 2008), I bought two new O2 sensors to install with the new header and midpipe. So, was your advice about NOT using new O2 sensors really meant for relatively new sensors, versus the ones in my car which have such high mileage on them?

I also bought one short and one long O2 harness extension, to make it more plug and play without needing to unbundle the existing wiring.

Posted: **Thu Aug 01, 2024 9:00 pm**

Yes, I would start life with the new header without adding any variables you do not need today. So, if old sensor in failure mode today then certainly start with a fresh one. But otherwise install the old ones and make sure no code issues. If the setup has an issue with regard to tune, like a lean code, that would be a good reason to then add the new sensor. Otherwise, I would keep the new sensors until you have reason to add them.

Posted: **Sat Aug 03, 2024 4:23 am**

Yes, currently the car has no tuning mods and has no CELs. So I will just swap the old O2 sensors onto the new exhaust. Thanks, Brian.

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