Now over 300 hp we have found the limits of the current selection of NC radiators and decided it was time to break the mold and make an exceptional NC radiator that can handle well beyond 400 hp! Thus, here is our first TRIPLE pass radiator for NC. I don't yet know price or date on sale, details will be coming in the new year.
Our Supercharged 2007 out for a track day romp at opening day of new season of our sponsored time attack series, the Roadster Cup!
Sadly we were on the trailer early with ECU issue. Nonetheless, with just one flying lap the car still set top time for any Miata of the event, got beat by just one Porsche GT3 Cup Car (and I think without the ECU issue we could have got him too).
njaremka wrote:After all these years, that car STILL looks great
I agree. I really wish that Mazda still made that Mazdaspeed nose, or even better, made one for the NC2/NC3. That car has all the right touches to just look like it belongs on a track without being over the top!
Happy to report our dyno back in action starting today!
Started with our new 1.8 inch big pipe header prototype. This is same ECU map, just a swap of 1.6 size versus 1.8, new high for this car of 311 HP and 273 Ft/lbs of torque! With the bigger header more timing could now be added and likely gain another 20 or so HP but for today just wanted to baseline before and after primary size swap from 1.6 to 1.8 inch. We also had a little lower redline set than before or it could have gone even higher. Still GMII-6KA280 Magna Charger GM Keyed Pulley Size: 2.8"
Brian, did you leave the factory water/oil cooler/(heater) on or take it off while putting air/oil cooler unit on last page.
You mentioned 30secs straigth on track that cause heatsoak etc. We have F1 track here, for 2:30 lap time I have to go full throttle 1:20 of lap with 17/16/8/10 secs blocks and longest part as 30secs contious on full throttle. That combination causes overheat in the engine after continuous 3-4 laps and intake temps rises sometimes up to 80-90C. You just shipped me hood louvers and I wonder how much it would help with combination with oil/air cooler together with CSF radiator already installed. ( Car is SCd and WI is not an option for now )
Factory heat exchanger gone off our car because we have upgraded both to BIG oil cooler and triple pass radiator. Singular hood vents and E85 also help.
Ok, I place the 9 rows air/oil cooler but did not connect it yet cause it came with filter replacement part instead of adapter, still waiting for the correct part called sandwich plate with cooler line.
I don' t know how to cancel the factory heat exchanger, I looked at the system and oil seems like coming directly from engine block to the unit which is also has oil pressure sensor on it. So at this point did you direct connect the water lines together and blind the metal pipes on the heat exchanger unit? Or is there a replacement part comes with the car without heat exchanger?
Or how did you do it? Because keeping both of them at the same time has no point to me if there is no consequence when take it off only if I know how to do it
I wish I could come and see it and talk to face to face. Maybe one day
Factory part is just another sandwich adapter at the oil filter connection. The lines to and from it are coolant. If you got space you can likely leave it on there with additional sandwich adapter but likely you run out of space and need to pull the factory sandwich adapter in favor of the new one for the dedicated oil cooler.
